Got TEA20 running badly with black smoke

OK so after a busy week at work I got back to work on the old girl,
As a recap, it was running lovely 3 months ago, then left in a garrage not started. Had real trouble starting, and when it did it was coughing, spluttering, backfiring, and not reving up, so to try and solve the problem I replaced the coil, plugs, ht leads, condenser, cleaned carb 3 times, float and needle valve fine, replaced fuel, cleaned fuel glass bowel and line, checked valves all ok, replaced rocker cover gasket and exhaust manifold gasket, roter arm pointing to plug 1 on tdc and leads set to 1342 and none helped,
So running out of options today I have
Cleaned the distributor out changed the condenser again
Changed the points and set to 0.22 It starts and runs, runing a little poor but much better however..... Now its only reving half way up with throttle lever so much black smoke coming out of the exhaust, choke is not on.
The idle is all the way out, 1 turn on the small screw. 1 turn on the main jet screw.
So the engine reves really high, the only way to slow it down is to give the main jet screw 2 or 3 more turns
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thanks

hole in carb float

READ..."TEA 20 Tappet Cover Vent Tube"......

Four posts below yours is a topic .."TEA 20 Tappet Cover Vent Tube"

Read and ensure the components are intact .......

Bob...

If there was a restriction anywhere in the air intake path, it would be as if the choke was on. Could loosen the air hose to the carb and run with air going directly into the carb to check that.

OK so after leaving it for the day forgetting to turn the fuel off, got back after work to find a puddle of fuel on the floor under the carb, i unattached the air hose and fuel gushed out, tank empty

Check FLOAT / FUEL LEVEL as per PICTURE.....

Bob..

Bruce from OR suggested a hole in the float , could be that or that it's just sticking .
Remove float and put into hot water looking for air bubbles . Hot water will heat and expand the air to make the leak more obvious if it's there .
Or you can rap the side of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle to dislodge it if it's just sticking .
Can't recall if you mentioned changing the needle and seat .

Sounds like flooding.

As said, check the float for gas inside one of the pontoons.

Also be sure the float is not bent or touching the inside of the bowl.

You can look up the float level setting online by the carb number.

Before putting the carb back on, turn it upside down, do the "suck test" on the inlet fitting. Suck on the fitting, put your tongue over the hole. If it won't hold vacuum, something is still wrong, it will flood again.

The needle valve is very sensitive to trash coming down from the tank, or getting in the line during installation. I like to turn the fuel on before making the carb connection to flush any contaminates. You can even make the connection with gas running to be sure there is nothing getting in, especially if your hands and the surrounding area are dirty.

The over revving, see if you can control the speed manually by disconnecting the governor link clevis. If it will not idle down, there is a major vacuum leak, or the throttle plate is not properly centered in the carb bore. If the plate is right, it will totally close off the bore with the idle stop screw backed out. If there is light coming around the plate, loosen the screws and center it, be sure it is not in backward or upside down. If it is not right, not only will it refuse to idle down, it will not properly draw idle mixture or off idle fuel.

If the idle can be manually controlled, the governor is out of adjustment or not working. Usually it is the length of the rod from the carb to the gov arm is adjusted too short.

Thanks for all your help guys, after changing everything under the sun I changed the float in the carb and tightend the nedle valve and she runs perfect, always the simple things right