TO20 Basics Overview

Just picked up a TO20 for a few hundred bucks. Starting to deal with the basics.

-Drained engine oil. The filter that came out was a NAPPA Gold 1107 (metal canister). Found an oil filter on Amazon, Baldwin P40. Is this the right filter? What oil should I use? 4qts came out. What is the capacity?

-No oil was in the hydraulics case. Looks like the seal at the PTO needs to be replaced. Part on order. What oil should be used in the pto hydraulics case? How much? Seems like I read 18qts somewhere.

-What oils and service items need to be done? I already dropped and cleaned the air cleaner.

- What is the screw/filler plug that's under steering wheel?

-Ordered a TO20 alternator conversion kit. Any gotcha's to that process?

Welcome frat!

Interesting find on the oil filter... I was trying to cross the number you listed, and found some interesting information. Could be nonsense, but it is on the internet! (see link)

The engine holds 6 quarts. It originally used single grade oil, as that was all that was available. The common substitute is 15w40 diesel oil. It is closer matched to the old flat tappet engines. The new gas engine oils are designed for roller cams and emission systems, neither of which applies.

The transmission holds 18 quarts. The plug by the shifter is the fill plug. All the cases are common fill, but the passages are small. The oil will need to go in very slowly, or it will dump in the clutch through the input shaft. The original oil was GL1 90 mineral oil. That can still be bought, but it will slow the hydraulics in cold weather. A common sub is the same 15w40 diesel oil.

The steering gear uses 90w, but few of them will hold oil. A common fix is to pump it full of grade 0 or 00 grease. It is a simi fluid grease that is thick enough to stay in, but not channel away from the gears.

The air cleaner, did you check the wire mesh in the canister above the oil cup? There is a mesh filter that is commonly forgotten. It needs to be cleaned, and if packed with dirt (most are) it will need to come out and be cleaned or replaced. Not easy, but necessary.

The alternator conversion, the bracket will most likely not fit. It will be a start,but will require some careful fabricating. Getting the alternator mounted straight, square and solid is essential. You will want to get a wide pulley to fit the belt. Don't use a narrow belt as it will bottom in the engine and water pump pulleys and slip. Follow the wiring directions carefully. If you get stuck, ask. We've been there many times.

How is the rest of the wiring? Unless it's been replaced expect it to be in bad shape just by the age.

Once you get it running, put it through the paces. Make a list of everything you find that needs attention. Unless it has had some work, expect to find problems. It's just the way 70 year old machines get. What you don't want is to take it apart, fix something, put it back and have to go back in!

Before you go any further, consider ordering a shop manual. It will more than pay for itself in mistakes not made! Get a paper copy, not a download. You want something you can carry to the shop, get dirty, write in it. Internet advise is good but questionable. Nothing better than having verifiable information in hand when you need it!

Have fun, ask all the questions you want! We want to help keep them out of the scrap yard!
TO 20 Oil Filter

Thanks so much for the thoughtful reply. I didn't quite follow the link about the oil filter. The link says to only use Agco part for the TO20 but I couldn't find the Agco part anywhere online. The NAPA 1107 that came out seems to be discontinued or my searching skill was lacking. So, maybe it's just one of those "stick in in and run with it" choices I have to make.

I haven't read anything about axel maintenance. Does the axel/differential need oil? B

The transmission oil lubricates the axle/differential also. You'll quickly find out if your axle seals or pto seal needs to be replaced. Sure-seals are your best solution if needed on the axles, hopefully not. Before you put in new transmission oil, you might want to open one of the side panels (MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS OFF AND WHEELS BLOCKED) and take a rag or paper towels and wipe as much of the crude off the bottom as you can (there are three compartments). Some spray kerosene to clean out the inside as well. You might also want to flush the radiator and replace the thermostat as well and check the hoses. Clean all the wire contacts with DeoxIT. I put in a PerTronix electronic ignition which has served me well. Remember to clean the fuel filter, there's also a little one where the fuel line connects to the carb. Best of luck.

Agree, clean out the intermediate case as best you can.

But don't try to take the square cover off the bottom! That is not a cover, it's he bottom of the pump.

Be sure the shifter boot is good. That is how most of the water gets in the cases, a bad boot.

And a real good chance the gas tank is rusty inside. If it is flaking rust, might as well put a new one in the budget. It will be an ongoing source of frustration.

Fram c153 should work. Buy the large gasket from this site, maybe two so you’re ready for the next oil change. Like others have said you can use the same oil in the transmission as the engine. I buy the 5 gallon pails from tractor supply and also a 2 gallon for the full service amount.

The guy I bought it from admitted that the PTO must have a problem because there was a puddle of oil every time he finished using it that leaked out of the PTO. I have ordered a seal and gasket for that. The gas tank looks to have been replaced not too long ago. Perfectly clean inside the gas tank but the fuel sediment bulb was corroded. When I removed the sediment bulb and unscrewed from the bottom of the gas tank, the bulb itself was gunked up with some gray matter. Almost looked like putty. I just ordered a new sediment valve and bulb kit. Probably wasn't necessary but oh well. Also got an aftermarket carburetor too. I'll have to examine what is meant by "open up one of the side panels." I assume that will be self explanatory. Hopefully that won't require new gasket if I open up a side panel? I'm still a little unsure if the Baldwin P40 filter is what I need for the TO20 but the seller on EBay claims it is.

Side panels are the round covers on each side, just below the seat. Gaskets don't have to be perfect as the covers are above the oil level. In fact, the oil can be poured in through the side covers instead of through the transmission fill plug. The full level is the bottom bolt hole of the side cover.

When you go to change out the carb, be sure to get the throttle linkage exactly the same length and angle so the governor will work properly. It still may need the rod length adjusted. Save the old carb. If it's not broken it's better than the new one.

The gray putty is probably tank liner. As long as it stays put it will be OK.

Steve, sent you an email.