To35 coolant leak at sender!!

Guys, I'm about to rip my hair out on this machine. I've managed to save it from being hauled to the scrap yard once, but it's time is absolutely running out.

I had to take everything apart to put a new thermostat in. When I put in my new crappy gauge from India in, it leaked where the sender goes into the housing. I tried a brand new gauge and it leaked as well. There is just not a way for the nut to get tight enough to not make the sending unit snug and water runs out around the shaft. What in the hell is the trick here? I honestly didn't think this was rocket science but there is no compression fittings of any sort or o-rings or anything that will allow either sending unit to seal up. Once it is tight, you can still wiggle the sending unit shaft without any trouble.

Like I said, the owner is tired of fooling with it, I'm tired of fooling with it, esepcially mickey mouse issues that shouold just work.
 

Also, the gauges I am using are S.43045 from this site. I am saying that that the nut is tightened down to the block and there is STILL movement in the probe shaft leaking like a sieve. The gauge under no circumstances fits.

I have three options:

1.) Cap it off.
2.) Jam something in some places to take up space.
3.) Get some good american made gauges somewhere.
 
Trying to remember how that works, I think the sensor bulb goes directly into the thermostat housing, then the nut pushes it up against the seat?

If so, I suspect the threads are messed up in the housing, and now the threads on the nut are too from being tightened against the bad threads.

Look everything over. If it had a pipe plug forced in, the threads are damaged. I don't know what the thread size and pitch are, probably special, so it will be difficult to find a tap, and you will be tapping right up to the seat, not an easy fix.

Might be easier to find a good housing, maybe the threads on the nut can be filed.

Just guessing without seeing it...
 
might be able to do something with an o-ring or two...

I walked out with a flashlight and looked at mine, the nut is screwed up nearly tight to the housing. How close does yours get before getting tight?
 
If you can find it archives have info on your problem. Bulbs come in at least 2 different lengths. You need the short one. 50 years ago my bulb was same as yours. I made a short sleeve from copper tubing to slide on the bulb, might have flared one or both ends. Long time ago but it still works and leaking never a problem.
 

Well, I still have the old bulb even though the wire is damaged. The threads on that are steel and considerably deeper but still thread in clean and tight. On my new probe, the unit is considerably longer and the threads on the nut are damaged beyond repair. On my Other new gauge, the threads appear to be showing signs of damage but you can seat that nut against the housing and still not achieve a leak free bulb. The bulb is flat it wiggly.

Ive ordered new American gauges that are not reproduction Chinese junk gauges. I am hoping quality metal on the nut will alleviate this issue. I have no other option really but Im pretty disappointed in sparex crap.
 
I sell all the aftermarket brands, just did a little research and I believe that what
Sparex carries is the same as Tisco and likely many others.

I once had a similar thing on a 600 or 800 Ford,if I remember correctly there was some
deterioration in the port that wouldn't allow the bulb and nut to properly seat and I had
to machine a brass or copper bushing to get it to seat and seal correctly
 
A sealant called Stag Paste made for gas , water and high pressure steam joints works well on loose threads . It is a thick viscous paste that dries hard in air and sets loose joints rigidly . I use it for fuel a lot as well as water.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/stag-jointing-paste-200g
 

So, the issue here is that the Indian made gauges have a probe that is simply too long. So the compression portion of the bulb never seats and there is not enough thread to make it, thus stripping out the gauge nut.

On the Tisco/Sparex units, the unit MIGHT fit but I'll never know since the compression portion is much shorter so the nut bottoms out before you can achieve a seal on that portion.

At this point, I see absolutely no option other than finding a plug to fit the hole and tossing the temperature gauge. I could possibly add parts to make one gauge work but the tube is all soldered and there is no way to do that without destroying the guage.

Autometer gauge has a bulb that is plenty short but too fat around to go into the hole at all.

The thread part of the gooseneck is, as noted, straight thread. All of my brass fittings are NPT which will not work.
 

CAN SOMEONE GET ME IN TOUCH WITH THIS USER:

WilliamsCreekFarm

He may be able to help with a bushing.

my email is

j
e
duke

02

AT

gmail
 

I just got my STEINER temperature gauge referenced in an archived thread as THE SOLUTION to this.

Yeah...it doesn't fit either. The bulb is short enough but too fat to go in.

I'm going to cap off the port if I can find a cap that threads into it. If not, I'll weld a cap over it. Temperature gauge isn't crucial and I've had about enough of fooling with it. It smokes anyway so worst case, it overheats and seizes and then then it can safely be placed on the next scrap steel load.
 

If you want to plug the hole; 5/8 - 18 is the thread on a 5/8 fine thread bolt, so you should be able to thread a short 5/8 fine thread bolt, coated with sealant, in as a plug.

It will be great if WilliamsCreekFarm responds or someone knows him, but if you look at his profile he posted 6 times, two years ago, the last one being the post you are looking at. It doesn't read to me that he intended to make any more for sale. People come and go here all the time.

He left some good info in that post. It looks like a machine shop, local to you, could work with the info in his post and your new gauge, to make you an adapter.

Did you check out the adapter at the link c.oawright provided you in your other post? The wording of your reply sounded like it would work.
 

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