Runaway Engine RPM TE20

Working my way through this sick pony (Early Model TE20). Plugs carboned over, points corroded, Coil cracked, Wiring shot, steering arm leaking (Bad), Fuel tank got more junk than gas, Hydraulic inoperative. SO, I have the shop manual, got the engine running fine and with careful attention to adjusting the governor linkage the engine fires right up but immediately goes full throttle. Looked to see if throttle full is also full open at the carb and throttle closed the carb is closed - everything checks just fine. I suspect the governor is Kaput. I could use some handholding on this, there's already enough with the steering and hydraulics to keep me busy all winter. Did I over look something? Rebuilt a ton of N's but this is my first Fergie only to learn it is not a rebadged 2N! Rework the Governor or is there something I overlooked???

Is the motor running wide open with the throttle plate on the carburetor closed?

The governor is responsible for the engine overspeed so I'm assuming it is not linkage but governor malfunction. I just
wonder if there is an easy fix or if I missed something. Tractor has sat outside unused since 2007! So I'm told.

It can be a couple things on the governor.

To check the function of the governor:

Set the dash lever to a mid position.

Disconnect the carb link from the governor arm.

You will now be in manual control of the engine speed, so it helps to have an assistant to operate the ignition and starter.

Hold the disconnected carb link rearward to the idle position.

Gently hold the governor arm forward.

Have the assistant start the engine. Be careful, your hands are very near the belt!

Gradually bring the engine RPM up.

Observe the disconnected governor arm. It should begin to move toward the rear if the governor is working. It helps to have a tach, but by the time the engine is around 2500 RPM, the arm will be as far back as it is going to move.

If this does not happen, there is an internal problem with the governor.

If it does move, carefully note the farthest position it moves to.

Adjust the length of the carb rod so when the arm was at it's rear most position, the throttle is held against the idle stop.

Reconnect the linkage, start the engine and slowly bring the RPM up. It should max out at around 2000RPM. If the top speed needs to be adjusted, loosen the U bolt, rotate the arm until the speed is correct with the dash lever in full speed position.

Yep, It was the governor malfunctioning as we suspected. Thanks Steve. The walk through on trouble shooting the problem was a big help and I'm sure it will be help full to a lot of other folks as well. We'll need a long winter to get this puppy back to decent shape. Great forum - Thanks to you all.

I'm thinking that engine used a double weight/pivot type governor that was troublesome.

The replacement is a spinning ball/cone type upgrade.

Just something to look into, I could be thinking about a different engine though.