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Re: TO35 Finally Running!! But...Some issues I need he

B

Bruce(OR)

Well-known Member
Stuck rings.
Rings should expand out from the piston grooves against the cylinder walls to provide either increased compression or wiping away excess oil
from the cylinder walls. Stuck implies that they are not contacting the cylinder walls usually typically either through an excess of carbon
build up on the bottom oil ring from a lack of oil changes or through an overheated engine that typically can stick the top two rings on an
older engine and exasperated by a lack of oil changes also.
 
Oil pressure is effected by viscosity, engine temp and typically RPM. Does it drop when run for 25 minutes? Warm Idle?
 
Stuck rings are usually caused from the engine sitting with rain water, condensation, or coolant getting down around the rings.

Typically that happens when the engine is stuck from rust, but not stuck so bad it can't be broke loose. The residual rust packs in between the rings and the ring lands, holding the rings from springing out in full contact with the cylinder walls. But it usually effects the compression rings, causes low compression, blow by.

Was it stuck when you first tried to start it?
 
I can’t tell. With the old gauge it hung out at 20psi from a cold start and dwindled to 18 or so after running a while. The new factory gauge barely registers enough oil pressure to get the needle off the 0 peg. That’s going from SAE 30 to 15w40. I exited a noticeable increase of pressure but non was noted.
 
You may end up having to do an inframe ring job.

It's not that bad of a job. If it has good oil pressure no need to replace bearings.
 
The more I mess with it the more I feel like this is going to need a full rebuild. I had 20psi which isn’t enough to register on my factory gauge. Maybe a week of sitting with Rislone will free you some stuff?
 
(quoted from post at 21:05:03 08/12/20) The more I mess with it the more I feel like this is going to need a full rebuild. I had 20psi which isn t enough to register on my factory gauge. Maybe a week of sitting with Rislone will free you some stuff?
Click to expand...

If you have a compressor with a gauge, you can use that to compare the accuracy of your oil gauges. Then you do not have top guess which one is correct. And it may not be the new one. :)

With my tractor, I was only able to achieve 15 psi when hot at 1500 RPM, and 5 psi when hot at idle. The gauge read about 50 psi when cold. I also used SAE 30 to improve the pressure. Anyway, my point is I used the tractor this way for 30 years, and it worked hard at times.
 
I don't think the rings are stuck if the engine wasn't stuck.

Doubt any thing poured in will help at this point.

If it's got 20 PSI oil pressure warm and revved up, that is good!

Most barely move the gauge at idle, and will run that way for years.

But, if you go in, open the oil pump and look it over. They are known to break where the driven gear attaches to the shaft.

And the governor issues. Even if it works it needs to be looked at just to be sure it's not failing.
 
Yes, you do want a thermostat.

A 160 will be fine, or a 180.

With a thermostat it will try to build pressure if the cap is good. Without a good cap it will probably boil coolant away. You might want to get a cap while you are at it.
 
I usually drill a 1/16 hole in the stat somewhere to allow any trapped air to escape and minimize overheating the engine waiting for it to
get to temp.
That also helps diminish temp spiked during normal operation.
 
Smoke under load is rings. Either rust stuck from sitting, or worn oil rings.

There is very little oil going to the top end, they are not known to smoke much from valve guides. Typically valve guides will smoke on start up then clear up.

Check the oil level, be sure it is not over full or contaminated with gas. That will aggravate oil burning and leaking. If you are the only operator, try letting the oil run a quart low and keep a close watch on it. Be sure the crank case vent tube is clean.
 

I have some rubber/cork gasket material, can I use that to make a gasket? The surfaces are pretty corroded. I have cleaned them up as best I can. I can also use straight up RTV if that's better. Just need to know which was to go.
 
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