48 TO20 Trans / HYD / Axle Fluid

billinr

New User
Hello All
I would like to check the fluid condition and level for the trans and axle. Everything works and I don't hear any strange noises, but since my tractor is a bit of a Franken-Fergy, I don't know if the dipstick in the axle is correct or bent or...?
I read in these forums that I could remove the lower bolt on the axle tube and the oil should be at that level, so my questions:
1. If the tractor is warmed up and parked on a level surface, will oil at the bolt hole indicate an acceptable level for all 3 chambers?
2. I think I should look inside (never have); can I pull the shifter cover and the cover under the seat without small bits flying out or dropping into the works?

Thanks to all for your help here and in the past.
 
Don't take the axle tube bolts loose, some have a free nut on the inside and you can't tighten it back up!

The proper level is to the bottom bolt on the round inspection covers under the seat.

I would not pull the shifter cover just to look, that is asking for trouble! Instead take the right round cover off. You can also take the left cover off, but it has to go back on first so you can get the PTO linkage back in place.

Those are known for collecting water in the cases. It gets in by condensation and around a bad shifter boot. You can loosen one of the drain plugs and see if water drips out. If there is water, it will be on the bottom. If the oil is milky, it has water emulsified in it and needs changing.

If you change the oil, refill it with 90w mineral oil, or 15w40 engine oil. It will hold 4 1/2 gallons. If you want, you can flush it with diesel. Don't be tempted to remove the big square cover on the bottom! That is not a cover, it is the hydraulic pump. Loosen it and you will start a leak! It won't come down without further disassembly.

When refilling the oil through the plug on top of the trans, fill it very slowly. The oil had to make it's way to the rear housings, and the passages are small. Fill it too fast and it will dump in the clutch! Yes, all the housing are interconnected. You can fill it through the inspection covers if you like.
 
(quoted from post at 12:26:34 08/11/20) Don't take the axle tube bolts loose, some have a free nut on the inside and you can't tighten it back up!

The proper level is to the bottom bolt on the round inspection covers under the seat.

I would not pull the shifter cover just to look, that is asking for trouble! Instead take the right round cover off. You can also take the left cover off, but it has to go back on first so you can get the PTO linkage back in place.

Those are known for collecting water in the cases. It gets in by condensation and around a bad shifter boot. You can loosen one of the drain plugs and see if water drips out. If there is water, it will be on the bottom. If the oil is milky, it has water emulsified in it and needs changing.

If you change the oil, refill it with 90w mineral oil, or 15w40 engine oil. It will hold 4 1/2 gallons. If you want, you can flush it with diesel. Don't be tempted to remove the big square cover on the bottom! That is not a cover, it is the hydraulic pump. Loosen it and you will start a leak! It won't come down without further disassembly.

When refilling the oil through the plug on top of the trans, fill it very slowly. The oil had to make it's way to the rear housings, and the passages are small. Fill it too fast and it will dump in the clutch! Yes, all the housing are interconnected. You can fill it through the inspection covers if you like.

Thank you for the advice. Glad I checked here first.
2 more questions:
1. Fill slowly - something like 1 quart per 5 minutes?
2. You mention flushing the cavity with Diesel, if needed. Just fill through the same plug on top of the trans? 4.5 gallons and then run the tractor for a short time? Same fill rate?
Thanks again.
 

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