Z129 crank shims

I have a set of .10 under mains on a fresh ground crank and the new inner brass thrust washer is asking for more shims to get the right end play so would anyone have any??

Im under the impression that the old fiber inner washer was thinner so at torque the crank needed less shims to keep the journal .003-.007 off Now with a new shiny brass fella

Ill need another shim

(quoted from post at 20:30:22 07/07/20) I have a set of .10 under mains on a fresh ground crank and the new inner brass thrust washer is asking for more shims to get the right end play so would anyone have any??

Im under the impression that the old fiber inner washer was thinner so at torque the crank needed less shims to keep the journal .003-.007 off Now with a new shiny brass fella

Ill need another shim

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You're not getting any replies yet, so maybe if I reply and get it wrong it will spur those smarter to correct me.

It's been a number of years, but when I needed shims to correct some end play issues on my crank I found shims through McMaster Carr. Their website was nice. If I recall they allowed me to search for the proper ID and OD, and then there were a number of thickness options available.

But like I said, it's been quite a few years and I'm not 100% sure we're talking about the same shims. But McMaster Carr is handy for stuff like that. Worth a try is you know the dimensions you want.

Years and years ago I used bud lite beer cans carved and flattened for the end play shims. Sold to brother and it's still fine.

Thank you both for the reply Im looking at McMaster Carr very nice perfect and the aluminum can is a good idea as well Id read that same thing before really I guess Im wondering why folks sell a main bearing kit with brass that will change thrust tolerance but not sell a shim kit probably a simple answer I will spec the shims from continental and order some from Carr can anyone speculate the material as in steel i think it is

I have the bottom end sorted out well and im happy with the rotating assembly thus far, now i have another situation

Im in the process of replacing the camshaft and have a few questions.

Has anyone ever seen a washer between the cam face and the thrust plate that bolts to the block? There was a homemade guy in there for some reason and im not sure about putting it back because this engine has told the story of a previous owner cutting corners before, wrong lash caps, wrong piston rings, things like that

the cam nut also had a generous heap of epoxy on it which sort of suggests someone else was in there and had an issue..

if i dont use the little homemade shim between the cam end and the thrust plate t here is quite a bit of play end to end but the cam nut i suppose alleviates that. the new ball style governors come with a shim behind them which this engine did not have.

i have torqued the cam nut down with both the homemade washer under the thrust plate and without only to find the balls do not move freely at 40ft lbs on the nut. somethings not right.

i had to replace the cam as a hard stall had rolled the key and chipped the keyway on the end and the first used one i found had flat lobes so i went new..

should i order a new governor? should i use the washer thats not in the schematic that the previous owner had under the thrust plate? should i assemble it loosely and put epoxy on the nut like they did before me? rather not

thoughts

by the way i have a full recent account of assembling a to30 bottom end fresh in my mind if anyone has any thrust or endplay questions