1956 French built TEK-20

Hello everyone,

I recently got my hands on, at least what I think is, a Ferguson rarity. Although there is very little information available for the TEK variation, it is clear that it is mechanically identical to the later model TEAs. Finding any information about Frech built models is a challange in itself, but the serial plate is somewhat helpful. The color appears to be originally entirely red, but was repainted sometime in the past. I am looking for any and all information available regarding the TEKs. I hope some of you more experienced fellows can help me find out more.

The TEK itself is in very good condition and runs reasonably well. I suppose I will be constantly asking for your extensive knowledge and searching the forum for tips in the coming months. Although I will not be starting right away, I do want to make a plan. So, I do have a few questions for our more expereinced forum dwellers:

-Considering the TEK starts without issue and runs well, should I even be considering tearing the motor apart because of cleaning/servicing? Or would this just create more problems that it would solve?
-The trottle is sluggish and responds poorly. That would generally mean the carb is due for a teardown, correct?
-What is the RPM range for the TEA petrol motor? The TEK idles at 900/1000 RPM and only is reaching a RPM of 1900/2000 in fourth gear with full throttle. If this is not normal, how can I adjust?
-The exhuast makes a kind of burping sound. This is the best I can describe it. It is not terrible, but could this be a timing issue?
-How can I tell if the motor is a 80mm or 85 mm bore? Any signs from the outside? Considering the year this TEK was built, it should be the 85mm bore. However, it is showing the HP from the 80mm bore in the papers. Which can I trust?

I am grateful for any help I can get and also proud to be a new Ferguson owner. Pictures will be attached in a second post for your viewing pleasure. I also have a video of the TEK running is anyone is interested.

Thanks!

Chris from Germany

Hello Chris , Google Grey Fergie Forum , there are members there with knowledge to help .
A 12 volt TEK will be an 85mm engine , a sluggish throttle is more likely to be a problem with the governor weights that wear grooves in themselves after time and become unresponsive , the difficulty reaching higher rpm is also a symptom of a faulty governor. A burping exhaust is often a result of a stuck , blocked or missing rocker cover breather valve . Take the air cleaner apart completely and clean the steel mesh inside , this is not easily cleaned just by washing in solvent , it must be dismantled .If the motor starts and runs don't abspielen with it . As your Vater must have told you when you were young " Don't play with it sohn " .

Welcome Wosn!

I never knew Ferguson had a french factory, but not an expert at all.

Is there something on it saying it is French built?

Breaking down the model number, T is the general model, E indicates England, and K indicates it's a vineyard model.

So I think you have a British built 20.

2000 RPM is about right. To test the governor function, set the throttle lever for full speed, manually push the throttle closed at the carb, let the engine idle down. Then release the throttle and watch what it does. It should instantly go to wide open position, then modulate back down to maintain the 2000 RPM speed. If you want to change the speed, look up above the generator, there is a U bolt on the control shaft. Loosen the U bolt and rotate it to put more tension on the governor spring. But proceed with caution, it sounds like it is where it needs to be.

As for the exhaust noise, check the distributor for shaft side play. It must be tight for the points to stay set properly. Check the centrifugal advance, it should turn a few degrees and spring back when released.

Check the valve lash, look at the springs, look everything over about the valve train.

While the tank is off be a good time to rinse it out.
Info

Here are the promised pictures:

(quoted from post at 06:18:55 06/29/20) Welcome Wosn!

I never knew Ferguson had a french factory, but not an expert at all.

Is there something on it saying it is French built?

Breaking down the model number, T is the general model, E indicates England, and K indicates it's a vineyard model.

So I think you have a British built 20.

Click to expand...

Up to about 1956, the French assembled the TE line of tractors using a "kit" of parts sent from England. The French added their own carb. and electrics. Eventually they built their own engines too and started calling them FF30.

Never see one with the tach attachment!

Cool!

is the radius rod bent or is it a optical delusion ?

It is a vineyard or narrow model. The radius rod and tie rod are made like that.

(quoted from post at 12:00:43 06/29/20) Hello Chris , Google Grey Fergie Forum , there are members there with knowledge to help .
A 12 volt TEK will be an 85mm engine , a sluggish throttle is more likely to be a problem with the governor weights that wear grooves in themselves after time and become unresponsive , the difficulty reaching higher rpm is also a symptom of a faulty governor. A burping exhaust is often a result of a stuck , blocked or missing rocker cover breather valve . Take the air cleaner apart completely and clean the steel mesh inside , this is not easily cleaned just by washing in solvent , it must be dismantled .If the motor starts and runs don't abspielen with it . As your Vater must have told you when you were young " Don't play with it sohn " .

Click to expand...

Hello Charles, I know the age old maxim of "don't fix it if it ain't broken". I was just asking you more experienced guys if it was even worth it.

SHould I even attempt to adjust the governor to solve the trottle problem, or should I simply dismantle and replace the weights regardless?

Hey Ron, does this carb then differ from the Zenith 24t on all other Standard engines? I was about to purchase a gaskit for the stndard Zenith crab but not I am unsure if it will fit... :?

Good day Wosn_Fergie......

It's a very good idea to check the BACK LASH in the TIMING CHAIN / GEARS / Electrical Distributor of your Engine......

Place a socket on the head of the "CAP SCREW" that holds the pulley to the CRANKSHAFT .Then turned the crankshaft Clockwise(CW)until the rotor (remove distributor cap and view rotor)starts to move. Then turned the crankshaft counter clockwise (CCW)until the rotor starts to move. I and found that the TIMING chain, and both the CAM sprocket and Crank sprocket had to be replaced. Once I opened up the front cover the GOVERNOR assembly also had to be replaced.

I had removed the Engine "STARTER" to verify how many "RING GEAR TEETH" moved /rotated before the "ROTOR" started to move (Turn).

My experience with previously owned Ferguson TEA-20s,"Standard Engine"is such, that the Camshaft Sprocket, Crankshaft Sprocket, and timing chains in need of replacement.

A Service Manual pertinent to your Engine is a MUST.

Bob...Owner TEA -20 Ferguson.........

Info that may assist you....

Info I compiled when REPLACING Crank sprocket ,Cam sprocket and Timing Chain on a STANDARD ENGINE.
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:

(6)There are NO timing MARKS on the NEW Sprockets. You may wish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:

(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several shouldered cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:

(8) It's good practice to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):

Cheers
Bob...

Hello Bob, thanks for the very detailed information and tips. I was not intending on taking the "resoration" this far at the beginning, but I suppose its somethig to consider sooner rather than later. As I mentioned before, and aside from some previously mentioned issues, the tractor is in fairly good condition and runs well.

You mentioned a quality engine service manual. I have seen you mention a few different manuals in other posts/threads. Do you happen to have PDF copys of these manuals? I would love to get my hands on some PDFs as I start preparing for this project.

Charles in Aus told you were to look. They have free PDF manuals for much of what you need. I did not see specific TEK manual.

(quoted from post at 06:19:21 07/01/20) Hey Ron, does this carb then differ from the Zenith 24t on all other Standard engines? I was about to purchase a gaskit for the standard Zenith carb but not I am unsure if it will fit... :?

Click to expand...

Sorry I missed your question. Probably not. I believe the French carb. was a Solex. The gasket to the manifold would likely work but not the one for the 2 carb. halves. If you cannot find parts, you could get a used Zenith carb.

This is a Zenith 24T , it seems to me that that is what you have on your TEK . Check the top of the casting , it should have 24T in raised letters on it . The kit will fit if it does , most times all that is necessary is a good clean of the jet and bowl and to check that the linkages and butterfly valve work without binding.
The alloy can distort if tightened down too much , especially to the manifold . Use only moderate pressure when reassembling otherwise you might create suction leaks .