TO35 New Alternator Install Help

My new alternator from this site just arrived. Its a 12v and it seems to have only one wire.

Obviously that post is wired directly to the + on my 12V battery. So, does my original voltage regulator stay in place? Do I need to do anything with it? Now that I have an alternator? Some guidance is appreciated. It looks like my regulator has 3 wires coming off the side and at least one coming out the backside under the battery box. Two of those wires go to where my generator used to sit.

So....what do I do here?
 
If you want the amp meter to work, disconnect the BAT wire from the regulator and splice the wire from the alternator to the disconnected wire. That is the preferred method, keeps the alternator wire away from the corrosive battery.

Then your choice, if you want every thing cleaned up, the regulator and it's associated wiring can be removed.

Or leave it, as everything is now dead (except the BAT wire) and out of use.
 
"It looks like my regulator has 3 wires coming off the side and at least one coming out the backside under the battery box."

This describes a 4 wire regulator. Bottom/back wire is GEN or ARM and goes to Armature post on generator. F on regulator goes to Field post on generator. I would remove regulator and these two wires.

Connect BAT wire off of regulator to alternator output as Steve says.

The remaining L (Load) wire fed the Ignition/Light switches. You can also tie this wire to the alternator output, or remove it and run a wire from alternator side of ammeter to power the switches
 
When I got To-30 conversion kits from this site, which included an alternator, in the package I got a wiring diagram that was spot on.
Did you not get that? (Maybe the 35 kit is different?) Yes, remove the old VR. Your new alternator has a VR inside.
 

I have no documentation. I also cannot read the terminals on my rusty voltage regulator.

I have 4 wires.

1.) out of the back goes to a generator
2.) Left most terminal wire goes to generator
3.) Middle terminal wire goes to ammeter
4.) right terminal wire goes to key switch


So...with this, can someone tell me what to splice and what to wire where? This will handle all of the loose wires, but there are also wires from switches and push buttons that go to the coil. I'm just kind of lost here. I have removed the regulator and now have these 'loose' wires.
 

Based on my post above and the post quoted, I basically have one wire that goes from the new alternator and ties directly to the wires that used to be BAT and L, the other two wires are removed.
Yes?
 

ALSO....this alternator is NOT a bolt up ready to rock and roll solution. I bought the alternator from this site, but there is no documentation with it, no brackets to actually install it, and I'm pretty disillusioned about that. Where do I find the bracket to make this alternator fit? I kinda thought this would be, you know, included with the alternator or available.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top