TO30 Alternator

UTEQDOC

New User
I have a 53 TO30 that has been converted to a 12V system. It was a home made job and is a mess. The alternator is shot. It has a resistor, a solenoid, and a 12V coil. Not sure why there is a resistor with a 12V coil.

The starter switch has been bypassed which is why it has a solenoid (I assume). I want to use it again.

Anyway, I want to put on a new alternator, eliminate the resistor and solenoid and rewire. At least this is what I think I want to do.

Can someone recommend the proper alternator to install.

Thanks in advance.

Steve
 
Take the alt off and run it down to a parts store for a bench test. Is it really dead?
Get yourself a 12V coil with the internal resistor.
Solenoid?
I wired her Fergy TO-20 and used the starter switch to power the solenoid. Less amp flow through the switch should make it last much, much
longer and the solenoid is easier to replace.
Proper alternator.
HA! That's a bit of a laugh.
How proper do you desire?
Wanna look as close to factory and still have 12V?
Rewire the OEM genny to 12V instead of 6V and it will put out enough amps to keep the battery charged.
Typical replacement is the GM 10si alt. Cheapest one of those might come from a 1979 chevy caprice (I believe) at about 40 amps. More than
enough to run the battery and lights. You do NOT need a 100 amp alt.
You can also wire in Ford alts, Chrysler, whatever. I believe Mitsubishi has a unit that will fit under the sheet metal without sticking
out at all.
If you already have a Alt on there then chances are the diode is also in the system that prevents back feed and won't allow you to turn off
the engine. That can be fun.
Need more info? Post back. Others will chime in shortly with more info. You can also look up JMOR who posts on a few boards and he has some
good looking diagrams.
Best of luck with your toy. Just remember to tell the wife that every implement needs it's own tractor. . . .
 

Thanks so much for the advice. I particularly like your last sentence because it is actually my wifes tractor :)

Here is some more info.

1. I took the alt to a shop. It is a 70 amp model that had been jury rigged in place. It was about to fall off. They tested it and it is dead and not worth repairing. Thus the reason I was wondering about what to replace it with. I had thought about getting the 12V alt conversion kit that is YT has as I need the brackets also.
2. Not real worried about appearance (though my wife probably is).
3. Here are all the components:
- 12 V battery with a positive ground (probably should go to negative ground)
- 12 V coil (it is a discontinued Moopar. I think it has an internal resistor)
- Solenoid
- Starter Switch (not wired, I assume it works)
- Resistor
- Key switch
- Pull out light switch on dash
- Ammeter (has only 1 wire going to it, the other side is cut off)
- Front lights
- Rear work light
- Starter (I assume 6V)
- Distributor (points & condensor).

I assumed if you had a 12 V coil that a resistor is not needed. I also assumed if you wired up the starter switch that a solenoid was not necessary. However, you recommend to go from Starter switch to solenoid. Is that correct.

Thanks again.

Steve
 
Google JMOR wiring diagrams.
The kit here I cannot testify to. Way far back many years ago I used a kit from Ebay and I would up making my own lower mount. All the kits
I looked at about looked the same. Fun part comes getting the upper adjustment bracket.

12V should go neg ground. Make sure the Neg on the coil goes to the points.

Very excellent chance last owner hooked up power cables wrong and fried the alt. (?)

6V starter can live on 12V with a well tuned engine. Don't crank more than 15 sec without a minute rest.

Mopar coil might have a stud in the coil just to make coil wires a pita. If the coil is currently wired neg ground, it might be fried from
batt cable backwards and run how long incorrect polarity??

Light switch, Lights are 12V? Same for work light.

Starter switch is also the neutral safety switch. The ignition switch should be nothing more than a 4 position power on switch.
Off, Run, Run and Lights, Lights. (If memory serves)

There is something I am missing, research the JMOR diagrams.

I wired the wife's TO so the starter switch would activate the solenoid. Not factory but I do not don't desire to replace the switch
anytime soon either.
 

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