102 loader to35 - Confirming process to drain & refill ?

Hello I have a 1955 TO35 with a 102A loader, and I would like to confirm the process to drain and refill the loader hydraulic fluid.

There is a plug at the bottom of the loader where it can be drained, that one is obvious. Once it is fully drained, do I start filling it from the front filter first, or from the breather at the top?

Any additional tips on cleaning the filter and tank are appreciated. Should I flush the system with kerosene?

Would there be a strainer on the large low pressure hose?

Finally on startup I just need to lift and bring down bucket several time to work out the air from system.

Thanks

(quoted from post at 18:16:39 06/06/20) Hello I have a 1955 TO35 with a 102A loader, and I would like to confirm the process to drain and refill the loader hydraulic fluid.

There is a plug at the bottom of the loader where it can be drained, that one is obvious. Once it is fully drained, do I start filling it from the front filter first, or from the breather at the top?

Any additional tips on cleaning the filter and tank are appreciated. Should I flush the system with kerosene?

Would there be a strainer on the large low pressure hose?

Finally on startup I just need to lift and bring down bucket several time to work out the air from system.

Thanks

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You're correct, drain it from the lower bolt, or from the lower suction hose. On some of these model loaders, there's a filter screen just inside where the suction hose attaches, so that's the way I'd personally drain it.

Take the breather off the top, then the large nut under it. That's where you fill it. If you're lucky, attached by a short chain link to the large nut under the breather, you'll find a fluid level dipstick hanging inside the loader upright. I got lucky, it's still there on mine.

The filter in front should also be changed, if I remember correctly there's a stainless steel basket and a filter inside it. Clean the basket, replace the filter.

I would NOT flush with kerosene, as I'm sure it's not good for the cylinder seals and packings. If you feel the need to flush the system, I'd use whatever oil you plan to fill it with, maybe mix in some ATF. (surprisingly, these loaders originally call for a type of AFT as the fluid, but most don't use it anymore.)

I use Universal Tractor Fluid from Tractor Supply for the 3pt hitch hydraulics, power steering, and for the loader. It's easier to have just one fluid onhand.

Not allowed to edit a post on this forum. :roll:

Anyway, be careful with how much you lift with that loader, it's heavy duty and will likely lift more than that front axle will handle if that's the agricultural axle on the front.

I can't *quite* tell from the pictures but it doesn't look like the heavy duty cast front axle that usually comes with the industrial models. Is your machine a Turf Special? Does it still have the serial number?

(reply to post at 19:03:37 06/06/20)

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(quoted from post at 19:23:56 06/06/20)

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Combined the replies I got the post got split in two.

I haven't had time to drain the fluid yet, but plan on doing so soon.

well that didn't work as planned...

Steve@advance replied:
Is there some reason you are changing the oil, as in it's full of water, or exceptionally nasty?

If yes, then it can be flushed, but I would not flush it with anything but clean hydraulic oil. To flush it, put just enough new oil in to fully cycle the cylinders a few times, the drain and repeat until you get clean (enough) oil. It's impossible to get all the oil out without doing some disassembly, that's why you don't use flush, you can't get it all out.

But if this is just a routine oil change, simply drain the tank, drain the filter housing, and refill.

There is likely no strainer since there is no way to access it, and the canister filter serves the same purpose.

Did you find a replacement cartridge and gasket for the filter?

Yes, do prefill the filter canister first, put the top on, then fill the reservoir.

You can cycle the cylinders when done, but there should not be any air in them unless there were hoses disconnected or the system opened somewhere else.

Just be sure the cylinders are in the retracted position before doing the final fill. If there is a vent, and there just about has to be, don't fill it all the way to the top. All it needs is enough to fully extend the cylinders without sucking air, and a little cushion.

My reply

Thanks Steve, this is just a routine maintenance.

I did replace some oil seal on leaky curl cylinders, now that the leaks are fixed I want to change the fluid.

I did find a replacement cartridge filter element I will only know if it fits once I open it up.

For filling there is a small nut at 2/3 up the side tank that indicates fille level, this older 102 loader doesn't have a dipstick.