TE20 with Sherman and Edwards

quillc

New User
Hi all,

Long term lurker. Finally registered as I have something to talk about.

I'm looking for some information.

Some background. I got a 1948 Ferguson TE20 tractor (S/N 56353) as part of an estate a few years ago. It has been hibernating out back under a tarp till this spring. I rebuilt the carb, fixed the points, flushed and cleaned things out, fixed a dented oil pan that was leaking. Yesterday I fired it up and other than the governor not wanting to work, I was able to drive it around. First time it has moved under its own power in at least 18 years. I then pressure washed at least a couple decades of gunk off of it. There is a knob on the dash and a lever on the side opposite the PTO lever that I didn't know what they were. After some Google-Foo, I was able to determine that the tractor is equipped with a Sherman (whose cable is frozen) AND an Edwards reduction gear. The Edwards works with 'up' on the lever being low and 'down' being high/regular. The lever is mounted through the right side hydraulic pump case cover (the one with the dip stick). In low, the tractor just creeps along at about 1/2 MPH or less.

I was able to dig up a manual for the Sherman that I can order, but there is NOTHING on the Edwards reduction gear that I can find. [u:343baba68a]Can anyone point me in the direction of a service manual for the Edwards?[/u:343baba68a]

Driving it around, I can only shift into first or second. No 3,4 or reverse. I'm wondering if that is due to the Sherman (knob is pulled out).

The PTO is a live PTO and works in gear as well as neutral with the tractor stationary.

Finally, has anyone ever heard of a Ferguson equipped with BOTH a Sherman OD (I presume it is an OD) AND an Edwards reduction? Seems like a rare bird to have both on a single machine.
 
I can't help with a manual for the Howard. But I'm thinking that a P.O. wanted the Sherman for faster ground speed and the Howard for slower ground speed without changing the PTO speed like the Sherman does.
As for not being able to shift into 3,4 or Reverse, if it doesn't clear up after driving it around and splashing oil up into the shift rails, you may have to remove the top cover and see what's going on. It's possible that the governor problem might clear up the same way. When I first got my TO20 the governor didn't seem to be working right. I changed the engine oil and put in a quart of ATF with the new 10-30. After awhile the governor started working.
 
Oh a Howard, yes I think it is common to
have both or at least in my family.
Have a couple Sherman Howard combos and a
couple fergies with just Sherman 3 speeds.
Like others said, has to do with what
ground speed you are trying to achieve.
Many of our machines such as balers,
harvesters, and sprayers had their own
power units so correct pto speed from
Howard was not as critical. Or dusters
before there were sprayers. But working
both aux trans together gives quite the
gearing selection.
 
I think the cable thru the dash is only the step up Sherman. Sherman's with lever on left front of clutch pedal were step up or over 3 speed combo in my experience. The lever shift step up I have seen had a small diameter shifter with large black shift knob but 3 speeds had a larger shifter but knob was same casting as lever and barely larger then the lever itself.

I think Sherman had over of .67 to 1 and under of 1.5 to 1 and Howard was 3.5 to 1

Lots of possible ratios. Kinda like my pickup, 5 speed main box, 2 speed transfer case with 2 to 1 under plus a 3 speed brownie. Ratios wherever they are needed
 
"Edmonds" Maybe you were thinking of the Ferguson Elliptic transmission?

The wife has a 1950 TO-20 with a Howard and Hupp combo.
24 forward and 6 reverse. So far.
Sherman typically being on the left side and Hupp being on the right side.

Modern Howard auxiliary transmissions are now made from unobtanium and come from the land of obsoleteum.

DO NOT GRiND THE GEARS SHIFTING. No more parts are being made. Period. I could tell you of the $600 gear I went in search of for hr Hupp.


The manuals are constructed of the same material however some literature can be copied into the paper format.

The other optional transmission would be an Everett that makes your tractor 10.5 inches longer and is equipped with a 98:1 ratio I believe.
That might slow you down a bit.

The Hupp combo trans came in two different gear ratios. One having a top speed of about 15 MPH and the other topped out around 25 MPH,
similar to the Sherman.


A Sherman with a frozen cable is a step up transmission. Those cables can be made and replaced. However, some people change over to a lever
shift.

There was a man who built a "4 Trans tractor" that had a low speed of about 12 inches per hour.
There are also people who desire a bit more speed from them.

Hit the link.
Untitled URL Link
 
Sherman Transmission Cable-to-Lever Conversion Kit

I have no connection in any way with this device....

Bob...
cvphoto3279.jpg


cvphoto3280.jpg
 
I have the same Sherman step up transmission. Mines cable operated as well, that photo of the lever operated step up is from Red Rock manufacturing. I ve been kicking around the idea of converting mine from cable to lever. In order for you to replace your cable, you will have to split the tractor. If I go through all that, I m definatly converting to a lever operated. I d love to have a Howard auxiliary...
 
The Howard being needed for using a tiller and the Sherman to get you down the road to the next field to work it.
The Sherman being rated for about 24.79 MPH.
Oh yeah. You might desire to make sure the brakes are working so you don't break it.
We can educate you, if needed, on "Sure Seals" installation and short filling the trans.
I don't subscribe to that practice but it can be done. I would warn against it with that Sherman trans considering the way it is oiled.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I had found the lever action Sherman kit. I emailed them and it will fit this tractor. After a little research, it appears that I have to 'split' the tractor no matter what. In that case, it makes sense to install the Red Rock kit rather than a cable that will eventually fail again.

After some CorrosionX and working the governor arm back and forth about a million times, the governor works. With 15W40 oil, it has about 25 - 28 psi oil pressure.

Alternator is putting out zip for voltage. A PO converted it to 12V. It looks like an 80 something Chevy alternator, so I should be able to get an alternator for cheap from Napa.

The metal intake pipe (from the oil bath air cleaner to the carb) was missing, so I used an 1 1/2" flex exhaust pipe from the parts store with some pieces of radiator hose. I can't seem to find an actual replacement pipe. [u:857c6ce70d]Does anyone have a source for a new intake tube - or one that they would sell me?[/u:857c6ce70d] The flex pipe works ok, but I'd rather have something closer to the original pipe with all the bends in it. If I can't source one, I'll buy some mandrel bends from Columbia and build one at some point.

The 12V conversion had a cheesy parts store key start (ie, a screwdriver key) start/run switch. I replaced these with a master switch and push button. Works much better.

Bought a new battery, installed a plastic battery tray from the parts store with a generic hold down.

Drove it around the yard. Still kind of spits and sputters down low. I think I'll try a different kind of spark plug wires. I bought a stock style replacement with the screw in caps. I'm less than impressed. Does anyone have an opinion on the best style wires? YT sells a couple different styles.

Thanks,
Chris
 
The 12V alternator might not have "woken up" to put out voltage. Get your alt bench checked before you replace it.
On the bottom of the alt is a two wire plug. Momentarily jumper a wire between the outer wire and the batt pos connection on the back of
the alt. Do this at about 1,000 RPM. you alt might start putting out. if it does, check back.
*
Intake pipe, check ebay or fab one as you have planned.
*
Plug wires? Screw in connections. Uh yeah. If your running a 12V system, then you could step up to automotive grade wires.
Her Fergy is running a set of Mallory's. Overkill and someday I will go to something more sedate.
Get a set with crimp on connections, push the boots back, remove the crimped on connections, cut to length, reinstall the connections and
slide the boots back down.
*
Have fun with your toy.
PS.
One per implement.
 
I am in mid wales U.K. and I have 9n which came
from Canada some years ago and it had a Howard
Rotavator permanently fitted but I sold that
It has Howard ruduction unit and Sherman unit but
don't ask about speed as it is parked in shed
needing new fuel tank
I am thinking of making stainless steel tank
 
Hi all,

I have the Lucas distributor. What plug wires work best (and from whome) for this tractor?

There are a couple of replacement distributors out there. Worth it?

There is an electronic distributor conversion listed for the Lucas. I've installed these in cars, I would presume that it works as well in a tractor. Any feedback out there?
 

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