TO 30

So I am new to Ferguson. I am working on a FergusonTO30 1952 I believe. It is 6volt. I replaced the battery, starter, distributor cap, coil, points. I did
have it turn over a little before replacing the starter (never fired up though (spark issue)). Now after I replaced the starter it won?t do anything. I know
back in the day farmers would replace parts that were not necessarily proper.
The way I was told to start it was turn the key on (which I have bypassed the wire to avoid the question of a bad switch) push the gear shifter over and
forward to start. There is a starter switch/gear shift part #MFS4299 that this site says is for TO20 NOT TO30 as I am working on. If there is a solenoid
on this tractor I would love to know where it is located. I could test or replace it but I have yet to find it.
I feel like I need to get the starter to turn over which will turn the engine then I can work on the spark issue.
I am at a loss for possible solution.

You really need a simple test light to eliminate the guess work.

There was no solenoid originally. Sometimes they are added, but the original design only used the heavy duty switch contacts that the shift lever closes when pushed to the start position.

That is likely where the problem is. The contacts get dirty and out of adjustment. Usually just a matter of cleaning and adjusting, or replace the switch, which is available on this site. The contacts need to close tightly against each other so there is no arcing or overheating.

You really need to keep the switch as it is, that is what provides the neutral safety feature. If the contacts continue to give trouble, a solenoid can be added, just use the original contacts to energize the solenoid. That will take the load off the contacts and put it on the solenoid making for a more trouble free operation, and still keep the neutral safety feature.

But to test it, get a test light or a volt meter. A test light is easier to hold and see than a volt meter. A 12v test light will work on 6v, just won't be as bright.

Start at the battery posts. the actual posts, not the cable ends. Hold the test light leads across the posts, try the starter. If the light goes out, the battery is dead or bad.

If the light stays bright, start systematically moving one lead at a time, trying the starter with each move. When the light goes off or extremely dim, you have found the bad connection.

The final test will be between the starter post (the actual post, not the cable end) and the starter case. If you have voltage there, and the starter is not turning, the starter is bad.

If you have low voltage there, and the cables and starter are getting hot, the starter may be jammed in the flywheel or the nose cone broken.

Just be careful, anytime during the testing the engine could decide to start turning.

Six volt tips:

Six volt systems are finicky. Everything must be right for them to work. The engine must be properly tuned, have good compression, good clean fuel and a clean carburetor. One of the biggest mistakes, substituting automotive battery cables. They are too light, it needs size 0, which are only available at truck/heavy equipment supply, or order online. Of course the battery needs to be fully charged, and the 6v batteries you buy now tend to be short lived.

The other thing you should try is to adjust the start switch plate. That is where the wire posts are and you should see the elongated holes and 4 bolts. I believe that when the shifter is pushed to S it pulls the rod to activate switch. I have loosed the bolts enough to move the plate forward with the help of a friend till the starter engages. Then simply release shifter and tighten bolts.

One other quick thing is to put a wrench or screwdriver across the two terminals briefly, that will tell you if the starter is working and the plate is out of adjustment

Brian,

I had a similar issue with an aftermarket starter(s). very frustrating,and i'll try to keep it as short as i can. Same as you, just doing some routine maintenance, and ended up with a starter problem. the starter was an after market starter, one year old. it wouldn't do anything on the tractor, wouldn't click, wouldn't crank, nothing. but worked fine when i put twelve volts to it on the bench. every thing was in order on the tractor. i triple checked everything, and was certain there were no issues with the wiring, switch, ect...i found a brand new one on craigslist. I took a battery, and jumper cables along with me to verify it worked, and it did. got it home and put it on the tractor, and nothing!! took it off the tractor, bench checked it, and it worked fine. so the brushes were intermintit...took the starter apart, polished the commutator with some scotch brite, checked the internal connections, took winding resistance readings. I put it back together, bench tested it,and worked fine.I then took it to the auto parts store to have it tested on their machine, it tested good. put it back on the tractor..this time it worked, but very sluggish, it barely turned it over.

so, i set out to solve this starter riddle. I ordered two "twelve volt" starters of the internet, when they arrived i put one of them on the tractor, and same as the others, weak, sluggish, wouldn't turn the engine. at this point, any sane person would have think it's the tractor, or the battery. all of which i ruled out. including using different batteries, different jumper cables, two battries in parallel, direct ground to the starter frame. the tractor WAS NOT THE ISSUE!! I was able to locate auto electric shop that rewinds, rebuilds starters. I called em up and asked if they could test these starters for me, they said yes, so i dropped em off. they called a day later, and said they tested fine. I went after work to pick the starters up. they happened to have one of thier own, rebuilt starters on the shelf that was the exact starter for my ferguson TO 30. I asked the guy at the shop if we could test his rebuilt starter. I wanted to see what the current was being drawn by the different starters. he and I put all the starters on his test rig, the two after market starters each drew about fifty amps, his drew one hundred amps. he told me the current doesn't matter much on these things, and told me i have a problem somewhere on the tractor. he told me to trust his thirty five years of experience,the starters are FINE!!

Ohms law was telling me otherwise. his starter was putting out twice the power as the aftermarket ones, he just didn't realize it. so, i bought the rebuilt starter from him, in spite of him telling me i had good starters. so, i brought it home, put on the tractor, and it worked just like it should. it turned the engine effortlessly, and i haven't had a starter issue since. I know its a long story, but i wanted to share my bad experience with the forum, so others may benefit from my misfortune, and the hard lesson i learned about the chinese junk that is being sold.