I need to completely wire my to-30. Wondering if anyone could help guide me in where the wires connect to the key switch. It does not have any lights and the key is just for on and off. I bought the switch from yesterdays tractor.
 
Key switch positions should be,
Off.
Run.
Lights
Lights and run.
Some day she might get the lights installed on it.
 
There?s a great company in New York that does complete harnesses called Agriservices. Wiringharnesses.com You will talk to Jim. I?ve been using
his stuff for years and they are always exactly what I needed.
Untitled URL Link
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:57 01/09/20) Key switch positions should be,
Off.
Run.
Lights
Lights and run.
Some day she might get the lights installed on it.

This is a 12V system, so is the key slots the same?
 

Thank you for the help. I am making my own harness and just need help with the placement of the wires on the key switch and the amp meter.
 
Diagram would be same for 12 volt generator, however if using 6 volt coil on 12 volts there should be a 1 1/2 ohm resistor added in series between switch and coil.

Switch, points, and condenser do not care if 6 or 12 volts.

Alternator would be negative ground. With alternator there is no L wire so switch input would connect to alternator side of ammeter
 
(quoted from post at 10:41:31 01/10/20) Diagram would be same for 12 volt generator, however if using 6 volt coil on 12 volts there should be a 1 1/2 ohm resistor added in series between switch and coil.

Switch, points, and condenser do not care if 6 or 12 volts.

Alternator would be negative ground. With alternator there is no L wire so switch input would connect to alternator side of ammeter

Is there a way to get rid of that resistor?
 
(quoted from post at 10:41:31 01/10/20) Diagram would be same for 12 volt generator, however if using 6 volt coil on 12 volts there should be a 1 1/2 ohm resistor added in series between switch and coil.

Switch, points, and condenser do not care if 6 or 12 volts.

Alternator would be negative ground. With alternator there is no L wire so switch input would connect to alternator side of ammeter

Also, I do not have a regulator, do I need one?
 
If you have an alternator you shouldn't need a regulator. Of course it depends on what kind of alternator you have. GM's - the common alternator replacement - have internal regulators. Coil should have writing on it telling whether it's 6V or 12V.
 
(quoted from post at 21:02:17 01/10/20) If you have an alternator you shouldn't need a regulator. Of course it depends on what kind of alternator you have. GM's - the common alternator replacement - have internal regulators. Coil should have writing on it telling whether it's 6V or 12V.

Awesome, the alternator is bad so I will be replacing it and I will get the Chevy one. As u mentioned with resistor, should I change the coil to eliminate the resistor? Also, if I add lights to the tractor will I need to add anything to the system besides the wiring?
 
I went with a one wire alternator...little more expensive, but less complicated. If you add lights, you just need wiring. Dump the coil needing the resistor and get a 12V non-resistor coil. Should be good to go! Exactly what I did on my TO-30 (without the lights).
 
Quote:
Any thoughts on where to attach the ground from the battery? Any spot better than another?

As close to the STARTER as Possible......eg...Cap screw that holds Starter in place....

Works great on my Ferguson TEA-20...and my Ford 2-N..

Bob..
 
(quoted from post at 09:06:15 01/17/20)
Will any auto part store have that coil?

Some will, but in my experience, most will not. You'll probably have more luck in more rural areas.

Personally, I see nothing wrong with keeping the resistor. While it can fail, they normally last longer than the coil does. I recently learned that John Deere actually switched from using a 12v coil, to a 6v coil plus a resistor, around 1952.
 

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