Massey Ferguson TO30 gear oil

Bowana85

Member
Once I replace the rear wheel seals. i need to refill the gear box with fluid. I noticed the fluid was milky from water in the fluid. I am not sure how to prevent that from happening again.

The tractor seems to have lost some power lifting my post hole digger out of a hole. I have had to use a jack to get it out. I am wondering if clean fluid will help had power.

How do I properly clean the gear box of the contaminated oil, what oil should I add to the gear box, and how much will I need to buy?
 
The gear box the transmission and the
hydraulic pump is all one cavity.
Meaning that they all run of the same
fluid. There are 3 drain plugs on the
belly of the tractor. Drain each one
starting from the front of the tractor
or the one under the transmission is.
Then the big cap under the hydraulic
pump then the rear plug under the gear
box or differencal. Don't pull the
second one first under the hydraulic
pump. Because when you refill it is
takes 7 gallons of oil not 7 quarts.
The proper oil to use is the tractor
supply Traveller All Mineral sae 90
weight Ford tractor transmission oil.
Don't use the Traveller hydraulic
universal oil or don't use the GL-5
oil it can foam up and eat the brass
inside the pump. I am in the process
of doing the same thing in my Ferguson
to20 tractoras well.
 
About all you can do is drain it well, flush it with some diesel, let it drain some more.

Possibly the pump is getting weak or the relief valve spring may have rusted. If the lift is smooth, the pump is probably OK. If it's jerky there is a problem with the pump. You can open the side covers, raise the lift with a load and look inside. (Do not reach in there running!) Oil raining down from above is the cylinder seal leaking. A small drip is normal, streaming is not.

Best do your diagnostics before refilling the clean oil, otherwise you will loose the new oil or will have to try to save it.

Look at the shifter boot. If it's bad or missing, that's where water gets in.

The gear case holds 18 quarts. Originally it had GL1 90 weight mineral oil (not 90 weight gear oil). It can be replaced with 15w40 engine oil. If you put it in the fill cap on the transmission, add it very slowly. The passages to the rear cases are small, add it too fast it will dump out the front into the clutch! Or you can put it in the side cover opening. Don't over fill it, to the bottom of the side cover bottom bolt is the proper level.
 
(quoted from post at 10:07:41 01/02/20)
The gear case holds 18 quarts. Originally it had GL1 90 weight mineral oil (not 90 weight gear oil). It can be replaced with 15w40 engine oil.

I am confused Steve why you are making the "gear oil" distinction. GL-1 mineral oil is gear oil. I do agree that we should avoid GL-5 and any of the other GL gear oils because only GL-1 is pure mineral oil. Below is the product description from a local supplier. I have no connection with Chevron or the industry.

CHEVRON GEAR OIL GL-1 SAE 90
Chevron Gear Oils GL-1 are recommended for many types of automotive and industrial equipment where the equipment suppliers recommend the use of a straight mineral oil in SAE viscosity grade 90 (ISO 220) or 140 (ISO 460). They are also suitable for lubrication of many types of equipment where copper or bronze is present and susceptible to attack by oils containing sulfur-phosphorus compounds.

The gear oil SAE 90 wt designation is useful to note that it's viscosity is about the same as SAE 50 engine oils.
 
It's the sulfur based anti wear additives. Supposedly it attacks yellow metals.

I've never personally seen what it does. But any time that designation is not mentioned, the "lubrication police" get all upset and undone! LOL

Strange that manual transmissions with brass synchronizer rings don't call for oil without EP additives, and they seem to be unaffected.

Since the development of multi grade oils, that has been something that makes the hydraulics work better in those tractors. I don't know of any multi grade gear oils that don't have the EP additives. That's why 15w40 engine oil has become a popular substitute.
 
(quoted from post at 03:48:32 01/03/20) I love the "lubrication wars". :)

My 2nd Fergie came with 10W30 synthetic in the rear end. I decided to replace it with the 90 wt gear oil because it leaked too much. :lol:
 

Thanks for the information. I pulled the left rear axle and was only planning to replace the seals on that side because the other side was not leaking. This after noon while I had the back left side jacked up, I noticed fluid running out of the right rear wheel. LOL

Anyway, is 10W40 used as tranny fluid going to be more likely to leak? I am hoping it gives my 3 point hitch more power. I know there was water in the trans fluid and the level was usually low because the seal leaked pretty bad.

Also is there a brake shoe that will work in the MFTO30?
 

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