What else to replace when splitting an MF65?

MOzarks

New User
Thanks to everyone for their help with my tractor and brush hog earlier in the year- I'm glad to say things are working well and the meadows are cut and primed for the deer season.

Now it's on to replace the worn clutch on this 1959 gas model. My late grandfather's records indicate he had the clutch worked on and applicable seals replaced 30 years ago (sadly the receipts failed to specifically note which seals). I'll be taking the tractor into town for a few months to work on replacing the worn clutch so I have plenty of time to be comprehensive and "do it right".

For you fellow MF experts, a couple of questions I'd like some advice on:
1) After splitting the tractor, what seals or other components would need to be replaced assuming low running hours but 30 years of age?
2) Since the tractor will be in half, is there any reason to think of doing an engine rebuild assuming the piston rings/seals are also 30 years old?
3) If things are working fine other than the clutch, is there any real need to replace old seals or pull apart the engine if they're holding up? I'm not hesitant to do a full teardown but I don't want to break anything if it'll survive another 30 years.

I estimate the tractor has seen 750 hours of use over the last 30 years. It's what one would call "light duty".
 
Have the mechanic examine the parts and decide what needs replacing. Comprehensive
would include a new rear seal for engine and for the front of the trans, new clutch
disc and pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing. At the low hours, it
may last a long time with original parts provided they are up to spec.

Ben
 
What is problem with clutch?
The clutch should not be worn out after 750 hours
unless you have not adjusted for free play or you
have been resting your foot on clutch pedal
 
1) I would replace the complete clutch, buy the kit which should have the discs, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing.

There are 2 seals (if dual clutch) on the input shafts of the transmission. Now would be a good time to replace them regardless of hours. At 30 years they will be hard and need replacing.

Look at the surface of the flywheel. If hot spots, heat cracked, grooved from wear, have it ground.

Look at the starter ring gear, if the teeth are worn more than 1/3 their length back, replace it. Note, the teeth will wear in 2 places 180* apart, not all the way around.

2) The engine is generally not effected by age as long as it was properly stored and the rings are not rust stuck. If it has good compression (check it before tearing it apart), good oil pressure, acceptable blow-by, and minimal rear main leakage, then leave it be!

A leaking rear seal can be replaced with the engine out and flywheel off, but a leaking rear seal can also be a result of worn main bearings and/or worn rings causing excessive crankcase pressure. If there are other engine problems, replacing the seal will at best be a temporary repair. If everything else looks good, and the seal is leaking, by all means replace it now.

3) As said, rubber seals deteriorate with age, replace them. Engine components, not so much for internal parts as long as it was stored dry. A rope rear seal will not deteriorate, but a rubber seal can, so can the front seal.

PS, on the clutch replacement, if it's a dual clutch, you MUST have an alignment tool. A single clutch can be aligned by eye if you trust yourself, but a tool is better. It's real easy to damage a clutch trying to stab it back if everything is not perfectly aligned. Hard enough if everything is! It must go fully together without forcing it with bolts. There are also some initial adjustments for a dual clutch before it goes back together. A shop manual will be very helpful.
 

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