Inherited TEA 20

mdl686

New User
Hello all. My name is Pete. After my father's recent passing I have inherited his TEA 20. The plan is to address some reliability issues and pretty it up later. First order of business is wiring. Tractor has 12v starter and alternator. "S" gear does not work. Alternator not wired up. Can anyone point me to simple wiring diagram for the setup I have. Any other tips and tricks would be much appreciated. This tractor has been in my family for almost 70 years. I would like to make it reliable again.
Thank you
Pete
 
Welcome Pete!

Trying to find an exact wiring diagram is not going to happen.

Since it is no longer factory, it will be a little different, but not difficult if you have a basic understanding of wiring principles.

Some things that will change, being a 12v with an alternator, it will now be negative ground.

The starter will remain the same. Just be cautious not to crank too long, and be careful engaging the starter, being sure it has stopped spinning, and the engine has completely stopped before engaging.

If it still has the 6v coil, it will need a 1.5 ohm resistor ahead of the coil. If it has a true 12v coil, no resistor will be needed.

Everything related to the generator and regulator can be eliminated.

The most common and economical and practical alternator is called a "10SI" Delco. It comes in a standard 3 wire model, or a modified "One Wire" configuration.

A one wire is just what it says, only one #10 wire that wires directly to the + terminal of the battery, or amp gauge, if equipped.

The 3 wire is a little more involved, but not difficult. See link.

The start lever, that needs to be incorporated back into the start circuit. The purpose is to provide the neutral safety feature. Very dangerous to not have that operating. You know better, and will always be careful, but will the next person driving it? Grand kids playing on it?

Originally there was a heavy duty set of contacts that directly wired to the battery and starter. They were troublesome. The contacts can be bought aftermarket. Another solution is to add a solenoid, use the contacts to energize the solenoid. That gets the load off the contacts, just more reliable, same end result.

On the left, there is a list of topics. Click on "Articles", scroll down through the topics. There are several on 12v conversions, other wiring topics. Lots of detailed info there.

Don't be afraid to ask, you can do this, it's not difficult. All the wiring can be #14 except the charge wire from the large post on the alternator, it needs to be #10. Use stranded automotive wire, not solid or building wire. You can get as detailed as you desire, soldered and shrink wrapped connections, split plastic wire loom, tie everything up and secure makes for a trouble free and professional appearance.

Let us know...

PS: Depending on the current condition, check the gear cases for water contamination, very common to have water in them if stored outside. Good chance the gas tank is rusty and contaminated, it may need to come off and be rinsed out with E85 or replaced if flaking rust or leaking. Try to get it running, drive it around, make a list of everything you find wrong. Best to have a game plan, fix what is needed the first time in instead of finding more problems and having to back track.

A shop manual will be a very essential investment. It will pay for itself in mistakes not made!
10SI Wiring
 

TEA 20 wiring diagram


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Welcome to the "YT" Ferguson group...Pete!

TEA-20 Fergusons were manufactured in England.

Very important that you obtain information on the Ferguson TEA-20, as the ENGINES installed in the Fergusons TO-20..TO-30 & TE-20 are different than your TEA-20 "Standard Engine". The electrical is also different as well as most of the components..eg..Starter, Generator, Voltage regulator etc..

Did your TEA-20 leave the factory with a 6 VOLT Starter?...OR...a 12 Volt Starter?

Note pictures...6 Volt factory Starter has a shorter casting to accommodate for starter drive.

12 Volt Factory Starter has a longer casting to accommodate for starter drive.

6 Volt Factory starters engages flywheel ring gear on forward side of Flywheel..

12 Volt Factory Starters engages flywheel ring gear on aft side of Flywheel..

An original factory 12 Volt starter will not mount on the casting of an original factory 6 Volt.....

If an original 6 Volt Factory Starter is attached to the mounting boss of a 12 volt starter mounting boss, the 6 Volt starter shall not engage the fly wheel ring gear.

The Tractor Serial # was originally located on a metal Identification plate viewed at 12 o'clock between the spokes of the steering wheel..

What Country do you reside in? Questioning, as Fergusons TO-20s and TO-30s as far as I know were manufactured in the USA...

TEA-20s were shipped from England all over the world...

If your TEA-20 has an original Factory 6-Volt Stater I'll share pictures of the problem that is created when 12 Volts is applied to the 6-Volt Factory Starter on a TEA-20...Standard Engine...I own three parts TEA-20s and one daily runner.

Bob...Owner operator TEA-20 S # 182991 6-Volt and other colored Tractors...North West Alberta Canada..

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That TEA I believe, is just a bit better design that the TO machine.
Sounds like it has been slightly changed so the key operates a starter solenoid to engage the starter. The "S" position being the neutral
switch, staring position all rolled into one was the original location. You have some great info below and some reading to do.
I would say the original starter switch was burnt out. You can also replace the original starter switch and then wire that to the stater
solenoid. The theory being that the OEM shifter handle starter switch will have far less amperage going through it and last your lifetime.
Yes, you can run a 6V starter on 12V. Just make sure your engine is properly tuned and don't crank it past about 10 seconds without letting
it rest a minute.
Have fun!
.
 

Bob , the photograph of the 12 volt starter that you use as a reference is of my own tractor sitting in the driveway of my home .

The wiring on this is not exactly standard , particularly the yellow cable to the starter mount bolt and the battery isolation switch .

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Wow thanks for the prompt and detailed replies. The alternator is 3 wire, 12 volt starter. I have to replace the starter switch as it is cracked. The plan is to use that to trigger a Ford style solenoid. There is a ballast resistor in series with the coil which looks to be 12 Volt.
 
I am located in southern Ontario Canada. Wired up a simple start button today with a Ford start relay. Works great. The alternator I have has 3 wires, but looks like your 10SI wiring diagram. Typical Delco from the 70s, battery wire and a 2 wire plug. The starter definitely looks to be 6 Volt. Next job is to wire up the alternator.
On another note, how do I tell which radiator to get. Is this site a good source for parts?. I think this one is a standard engine but not positive.
Pete
 
Quote...
I think this one is a standard engine but not positive...

See picture ..

Is this pictures the same ENGINE as yours ??? This Engine is equipped with the 12 Volt Starter...

Standard Engine

Thanks to Charles from Australia for photo?:)...?


Bob..Owner TEA-20
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Thanks for the acknowledgement John Deere D :D

It is a Standard engined Ferguson , but it is not a TEA .
This particular tractor is a TED20 made in the factory to start on petrol and run for the most part on ' Tractor Vapourising Oil ' or TVO as it is shortened to , a mixture of light heating oil / Kerosene and about 10% petrol . The engine will also run happily on straight petrol albeit a little richly .

The main differences ; a split fuel tank , the smaller for starting on petrol the larger for TVO . A dual fuel cock to allow shut off and selection between fuels , a deeper head , approximately 25 mm deeper than the TEA petrol variant , this lowers the compression ration to allow for the lower octane fuel , larger valves , to compensate for subsequent loss of power using TVO , a heat shield [ often removed ] that covers the exhaust / inlet manifold that heats the fuel to greater temperatures to allow for more complete combustion/ignition . A heavier casting at the base of the manifold carburettor mount to retain heat , different weights in the distributor and a heat guage fitted as standard .
Running on straight petrol sees this engine develop as much if not more power than the TEA , the one draw back of this engine design is the absence of bushes in the block for the camshaft , the bearing area is simply bored directly into the block unlike the TEA which has bushes fitted . I cannot see the logic in this and because of the tendency for TVO to dilute lubricant oil if switched over too quickly before reaching temperature these engines can suffer wear in this area leading to almost unrepairable low oil pressure .
 

[b:eab7d50cba]An omission to the differences [/b:eab7d50cba], the spark plugs used in the TED20 are long reach , projection ,3/4 inch threads rather than the 1/2 inch threaded standard reach plugs used in the TEA .

Getting these mixed up is not overly serious , the longer plugs won't foul the piston crowns in a TEA , the only problem may occur if the shorter versions are used in the deeper TVO head . This results in threads in the plug socket being left uncovered and exposed to combustion gasses and carbon , over time this can errode and foul the threads to the point where the correct longer plugs will be difficult if not impossible to fit .
 
Pete......Info on Factory installed 6-Volt Starter switched to operate on 12 Volt Electrical system..(12 Volt Battery / 12 Volt Charging system)

I own two TEA-20's parts Tractors....original factory installed 6-Volt starters, as well as a daily driver also a 6-Volt Starter but still operates on the original 6-Volt Factory system.

Both parts Tractors were abandoned, after the 6 Volt Starters failed...they had been converted to 12 Volts.

The 6 Volt Starters have a device with in the starter that is required to absorb the Torsional torque created as the starter gear engages the Flywheel ring gear.

Both parts Tractors, (6 Volt Starters) had this Torsional torque device fail.

Depending on which Continent you live, and your ability to locate parts can all contribute to you pulling your hair out when and if this Torsional Torque device should fail. (I know of an individual who now hand cranks his TEA-20 to start it)

When I commenced to locate the above component, It was through diligence and luck at locating TWO of these replacement components.

There are ways to cut down on the 12 Volt initial voltage / Amperage supplied to the starter. I operate my TEA-20 on 6 Volts, so I'm not familiar with operating a 6 Volt Starter on 12 Volts.

The LUCAS 6 VOLT Stater is unique....NOT like the North American or Lucas 12 Volt Starters that incorporate a SPRING system to absorb Torsional Impact .

Pictures of a 6 Volt TEA-20 Starter I located parts for:
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(quoted from post at 18:05:23 08/20/19) I am located in southern Ontario Canada.

Hi. I am from the same part of the world. :) Do a search for another forum under grey fergie. The is info there as well.
 
Motor looks the same, your fuel tank looks to have separate caps for main and reserve fuel. Mine has 1 with a motorcycle style reserve
 
Identification Tag...and location... Serial etc,..

Casting numbers....numbers indicate year.....someone shall explain the numbers....pics taken from Internet..

Bob...Owner TEA-20 S # 182991 & Parts Tractors...S #182371.. S # 362831....S # 251562

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From your photographs it is obvious that you have a UK built Standard Motor's engined TEA20 .

I can date the production to the day from the serial number under the steering wheel if it still exists , otherwise the casting numbers next to the rear dip stick can give an approximate date . The castings were generally produced three weeks prior to the completion of the tractor but I have examples of the rear transmissions being sent to the production line in as little as two days and as long as four months .
 

If you are very careful you can remove the tag and examine the back of it . The serial number starts with an etched TEA but is followed by stamped numbers , these may be able to be read . Failing this take it to a place that x rays welds , for the novelty of it they will probably light it up for free or a case of beer , the x rays give an incredibly clear image of the worst of corroded numbers .
 
Had the alternator converted to one wire. Installed and working properly. Next on to the air intake and cooling system.
Can anyone comment on the products here on yesterdays tractors as to quality and customer service. Looking at the new TEA 20 radiators.
A local source for Fergie parts says mine is a 20 80. Does this sound correct. Also I take it this means 80mm bore standard engine.
 
(quoted from post at 07:36:01 08/28/19) Had the alternator converted to one wire. Installed and working properly. Next on to the air intake and cooling system.
Can anyone comment on the products here on yesterdays tractors as to quality and customer service. Looking at the new TEA 20 radiators.
A local source for Fergie parts says mine is a 20 80. Does this sound correct. Also I take it this means 80mm bore standard engine.

Unless you have an American mail address, you cannot buy from here. I took a couple of cracks at buying new radiators. They did not fit well at all. Sent them back and got mine rebuilt. It was about twice the price, however.
 
I have bought several used radiators, and other parts, from Ontario Used Tractor Parts, north of Clinton. It is an interesting place. Most of the parts are in old school buses.
 
Info for you mdl686:

With Distributor CAP REMOVED turn Crankshaft CCW (counter clock wise) and then CW. (clock wise)Turn Crankshaft only enough to verify how many TEETH on the Flywheel move past the STARTER mounting BOSS before the ROTOR / Distributor drive moves?

Estimate the number of degrees the crankshaft has to turn before the Distributor drive moves:

eg. Flywheel =360deg /145 Teeth= 2.48 deg per Tooth

eg. 10 teeth 25deg..............4 teeth 10 deg

You are checking the condition of the Timing Chain, and drive sprockets.

I've lost track of how many Timing Chain, drive sprockets and Governor fly weight assemblies I've seen and replaced.

I had a situation were the Engine would NOT return to ideal until the throttle was forced towards min speed. The Governor weights were ready to fall off/detach from the holding pins. I rotated the crankshaft CW/CCW and noticed 4 > 6 TEETH on the FLYWHEEL had to move past a reference point before the DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR would move. Now only one tooth on the flywheel will pass before the Rotor moves. The governor was sticking at full throttle and would not idle down.

When the Governor FLYWEIHT ASSEMBLY fails...?.its your $$$$$'s

My daily runner (TEA-20 S # 182991) has had, Timing Chain ,Sprockets, and Governor weights replaced three times since purchasing Tractor new.

Pics of failed weights from "YT" forum..

Replacing components of my daily driver...


Bob....
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