Convert FE35 diesel to parallel wiring glow plugs

mf35a

Member
Has anyone converted to parallel glow plugs on the FE35 with the 23C Standard engine? http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2014/12/ferguson-fe35-glow-plug-information/
Land Rover plugs will fit. Where can I buy a Solenoid SNLS-12B ?
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GOOGLE "SNLS-12B relay", all sorts of places to buy one or it's equivalent.

Personally, I would use a STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY175 relay or it's equivalent, as it is designed for glow plug use. ANY auto parts store should have that or be able to cross it over to the brand they sell.

I would move the indicator light to the glow plug side of the relay, giving a better indication of if the GP's are actually being powered.

All that being said, I have a "424" IH tractor that I changed over to "parallel" GP's, and used an automatic GP controller for a GM 6.2 diesel.

That makes operation automatic, making it easy for others to operate.

Wait for the light to go out, then start. The controller will cycle the GP's a couple of additional times, making for smoother running and less smoke right after startup.

If interested, I can post a diagram of how to do that.
 
(quoted from post at 10:42:04 05/27/19) GOOGLE "SNLS-12B relay", all sorts of places to buy one or it's equivalent.

Personally, I would use a STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY175 relay or it's equivalent, as it is designed for glow plug use. ANY auto parts store should have that or be able to cross it over to the brand they sell.

I would move the indicator light to the glow plug side of the relay, giving a better indication of if the GP's are actually being powered.

All that being said, I have a "424" IH tractor that I changed over to "parallel" GP's, and used an automatic GP controller for a GM 6.2 diesel.

That makes operation automatic, making it easy for others to operate.

Wait for the light to go out, then start. The controller will cycle the GP's a couple of additional times, making for smoother running and less smoke right after startup.

If interested, I can post a diagram of how to do that.
Yes please post that and pics if you have
 
Will this kit fit? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-2-3-Glow-Plug-Pre-Heater-Conversion-Kit-2-25-Diesel-/271153044543
 
I have converted many of the British IH tractors along the same idea. I kind of wonder why someone posted that relay/solenoid "SNLS-12B"
Certainly not needed for what you want to do. That is a 150 amp rated relay for continuous duty - like for use as a battery isolator.

Four glow plugs are only going to draw 40 amps max. Also an intermittent-duty relay is likely more reliable.

Whatever you choose, all you need is a generic relay capable of handling 50 amps. If in doubt - just get the glow-plug relay used in a Ford
or Chevy diesel that is rated for 8 glow plugs (twice what you need).

Cost around $12. Intermittent duty relays are more reliable because they have stronger coils to engage the switch. That is what is used
OEM on diesel vehicles.

As to adding a controller? No way would I do it. To each his own. Timed controllers are sensitive and designed for a specific amp draw to
work correctly. Many OEM electronic controllers won't even work right when newer upgraded plugs are used right from the dealer.

My concern would be the quality of the new glow-plug. Modern glow-plugs of good quality are "self-limiting." That means - it is near
impossible to burn them out no matter how long you energize them. Cheap, or the old OEM plugs do NOT self-limit and blow-up pretty easy.
If doing a conversion, I would not be willing to take a chance on a no-name plug unless someone else has tested them to be "self-
regulating." With my IH British/Indian diesels like the B275, B-414, etc. - I used Bosch Duratherms that ARE self-regulating. I will
note that many years back, Ford with their IH 6.9 and 7.3, and GM/Chevy with the 6.2 originally had Delco or Motorcraft plugs that burned
out very easy. They all got superceded to the newer "self-regulating" plugs (made by Beru of Germany).

I cannot stress enough - doing the change is great IF you can verify the quality of the new plugs and make sure they are self limiting and
regulating. I had an Allis Chalmers ED40 years back with the same 23C engine you have. I had a miserable time with failed glow plugs in
it. At the time, nobody I knew of made a decent modern plug for it. Maybe now things have changed.
cvphoto24961.jpg


cvphoto24962.jpg
 
Did you use the early 6.2 thermal controller or the newer 6.2 electronic controller? I ask because we had a miserable time making the later electropnic controllers work correctly even with new upgraded glow-plugs from GM. The problem came after GM switched from the Delco plugs (that burnt out easy) to the German Beru self-regulating plugs. We had to take the electronic controllers apart and reprogram them because they would not stay on long enough with the different amp-draw of the newer Beru plugs. That was with 8 plugs. I cannot imagine how to get one to work with only half the amp draw with 4 plugs.
 
(quoted from post at 15:03:16 05/31/19) I have converted many of the British IH tractors along the same idea. I kind of wonder why someone posted that relay/solenoid "SNLS-12B"
Certainly not needed for what you want to do. That is a 150 amp rated relay for continuous duty - like for use as a battery isolator.

Four glow plugs are only going to draw 40 amps max. Also an intermittent-duty relay is likely more reliable.

Whatever you choose, all you need is a generic relay capable of handling 50 amps. If in doubt - just get the glow-plug relay used in a Ford
or Chevy diesel that is rated for 8 glow plugs (twice what you need).

Cost around $12. Intermittent duty relays are more reliable because they have stronger coils to engage the switch. That is what is used
OEM on diesel vehicles.

As to adding a controller? No way would I do it. To each his own. Timed controllers are sensitive and designed for a specific amp draw to
work correctly. Many OEM electronic controllers won't even work right when newer upgraded plugs are used right from the dealer.

My concern would be the quality of the new glow-plug. Modern glow-plugs of good quality are "self-limiting." That means - it is near
impossible to burn them out no matter how long you energize them. Cheap, or the old OEM plugs do NOT self-limit and blow-up pretty easy.
If doing a conversion, I would not be willing to take a chance on a no-name plug unless someone else has tested them to be "self-
regulating." With my IH British/Indian diesels like the B275, B-414, etc. - I used Bosch Duratherms that ARE self-regulating. I will
note that many years back, Ford with their IH 6.9 and 7.3, and GM/Chevy with the 6.2 originally had Delco or Motorcraft plugs that burned
out very easy. They all got superceded to the newer "self-regulating" plugs (made by Beru of Germany).

I cannot stress enough - doing the change is great IF you can verify the quality of the new plugs and make sure they are self limiting and
regulating. I had an Allis Chalmers ED40 years back with the same 23C engine you have. I had a miserable time with failed glow plugs in
it. At the time, nobody I knew of made a decent modern plug for it. Maybe now things have changed.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto24961.jpg">

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto24962.jpg">
Thanks for the input I got the Standard ry175 relay with the mail today. I will use gam 101 glow plugs by Britparts for Land Rover because they have the same length and threads like the old "pig tail" glow plugs. I cant find much info about the gam 101 but I dont think they are self-limit. How do I wire the Standard ry175 relay? I cant find any wiring scheme for the relay
mvphoto37539.jpg


mvphoto37540.jpg
 
I got this from Standard tech support: "The 2 large lugs (Red and Green) are the from the battery + to the load (motor, pump etc.) The Purple arrow is positive from a switch, while the black arrow is a ground."
mvphoto37547.jpg


"Using the same arrow colors, it should be something like this:"

mvphoto37548.jpg
 

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