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1955 Ferguson TO-35 SURGING PLEASE HELP

D

Dglewi1

New User
All,

I have a fergy to-35 that I cannot seem to cure. The tractor starts right up and runs fine but surges. Low rpm, high rpm, idle, it always surges.

I have removed the marvel-schebler carb and cleaned it multiple times. Replaced fuel strainer at 90 degree in carb and cleaned sediment bowl.

I am leaning towards a governor issue.
Can anyone give some direction before tearing into the timing cover?

Could I have a vacuum leak? If so how do I test for one?

Thank you all very much!
 
(quoted from post at 07:18:40 05/13/19) All,

I have a fergy to-35 that I cannot seem to cure. The tractor starts right up and runs fine but surges. Low rpm, high rpm, idle, it always surges.

I have removed the marvel-schebler carb and cleaned it multiple times. Replaced fuel strainer at 90 degree in carb and cleaned sediment bowl.

I am leaning towards a governor issue.
Can anyone give some direction before tearing into the timing cover?

Could I have a vacuum leak? If so how do I test for one?

Thank you all very much!
Click to expand...

Try to search and read the posts on here regarding governor adjustment (there are several) I would guess the arm that connects to the governor linkage and the carb could be adjusted to take care of the surging.
 
(quoted from post at 08:17:40 05/13/19)
(quoted from post at 07:18:40 05/13/19) All,

I have a fergy to-35 that I cannot seem to cure. The tractor starts right up and runs fine but surges. Low rpm, high rpm, idle, it always surges.

I have removed the marvel-schebler carb and cleaned it multiple times. Replaced fuel strainer at 90 degree in carb and cleaned sediment bowl.

I am leaning towards a governor issue.
Can anyone give some direction before tearing into the timing cover?

Could I have a vacuum leak? If so how do I test for one?

Thank you all very much!
Click to expand...

Try to search and read the posts on here regarding governor adjustment (there are several) I would guess the arm that connects to the governor linkage and the carb could be adjusted to take care of the surging.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the reply, I will search on my lunch hour and hope I can find the cure for the issue!
 

Thanks a million, think I have a good amount of information here, to begin another tinkering session when I get home this evening.
 
Check the point gap and distributor shaft for side play. That can cause strange problems, problems at different RPM, temperature, etc. Check the centrifugal advance. It should turn a few degrees and spring back freely when released.

Is the thermostat in and working?

Have the valves been set lately?


Has the air filter been serviced, including the wire mesh inside the canister?

Surging is commonly caused by a too lean fuel mixture, so a vacuum leak can cause it.

Try a partial choke, see if that improves it. If so, look more toward mixture/vacuum leak than governor. The idle mix sets backward of modern carbs, turning the screw out leans it, in richens it. to set the high speed, turn the screw in a turn, quickly open the throttle. It should falter. If not, turn the screw in until it hesitates on sudden throttle opening. Then start backing the screw out 1/4 turn at a time until it will take throttle without hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is desirable.

Look at the governor linkage from the gov arm to the carb. If the ball/sockets are worn sloppy, they need to be replaced. Mcmaster Carr has them. Any other wear in that linkage, loose bracket on the carb shaft, loose throttle plate shaft can cause idle problems.
 

Last night I tinkered with the bumper screw with no change.
I did check the air cleaner, since within the last month I had it off and cleaned it and replaced intake pipe. I am going to replaced some distributor parts to see if that will help.

Valves haven't been set since in my possession. I am not sure on how to do that. RPM consistently swing up 400 and then back to normal.

Linkage is a little sloppy but it all moves together.

If distributor doesn't do it, I think I will go ahead and replace governor and see if that cures it.
 
The idle RPM swing, can you stabilize it by holding the throttle shaft against the idle stop screw?

If so, the gov linkage needs to be adjusted. With the dash lever in the idle position, the throttle should be held firmly against the idle stop.

If it still surges with the carb held against the idle stop, the problem is not gov related.

Is the compensating spring in place? That is a second spring up by the thermostat housing that helps keep the speed set without creeping down.

Is the friction disc in place and adjusted? That's what holds the dash lever in place where it is set.
 

That is some great points there. I have not tried holding the carb against stop screw. I will certainly try that.

The throttle lever has always seemed to creep up a bit but not up and down so rapidly.

I will continue to tinker with it. Hopefully its something simple versus the governor being out.

Thank you all!
 
Buddy Bears has an awesome video on adjusting the governor on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31M3s0iOLQk

In this video I run through the adjustments on a petrol Ferguson governor. This is for the tractors with the Standard motor company engines, TEA20, TED20, FE35, MF35, 135 etc.
The same procedure is for a Zenith 24T and 28G carb.
 

All,

I have tried most all of the smaller things that can be done. buddy bears video is definitely on the list as my father in law plan on following it step for step.

I do however have a question, my tractor is running rough but I runs decent enough to grade the drive after the heavy rains we have been getting.

So while grading my drive, I decided to run back up to the house. I put the tractor is 3 high and let the clutch out slowly. It was running around 1500 rpm and just died. The second I pushed the clutch back in it started running again, does this point to governor issues?
 

I am very pleased to say the surging has been cured for now. Now having troubles with the starter solenoid just giving a single click when I push the button to start.

Thank you all for the help and input!
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:31 05/13/19) Check the point gap and distributor shaft for side play. That can cause strange problems, problems at different RPM, temperature, etc. Check the centrifugal advance. It should turn a few degrees and spring back freely when released.

Is the thermostat in and working?

Have the valves been set lately?


Has the air filter been serviced, including the wire mesh inside the canister?

Surging is commonly caused by a too lean fuel mixture, so a vacuum leak can cause it.

Try a partial choke, see if that improves it. If so, look more toward mixture/vacuum leak than governor. The idle mix sets backward of modern carbs, turning the screw out leans it, in richens it. to set the high speed, turn the screw in a turn, quickly open the throttle. It should falter. If not, turn the screw in until it hesitates on sudden throttle opening. Then start backing the screw out 1/4 turn at a time until it will take throttle without hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is desirable.

Look at the governor linkage from the gov arm to the carb. If the ball/sockets are worn sloppy, they need to be replaced. Mcmaster Carr has them. Any other wear in that linkage, loose bracket on the carb shaft, loose throttle plate shaft can cause idle problems.
Click to expand...


I am having similar problems with a 1949 TO20. It has slop in the linkages. You say McMaster Car has the ball joints? You don t happen to know the part number to order. I don t want to order the wrong thing.
 
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