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Will not start

J

Jon Stonehouse

New User
I have a 1952 TEA-20 has run great for years ,always start by hand crank. Just a few days ago I went to start her in -20 celsius and nothing. Checked points and they were bad so got new points, then checked spark and only got spark on #1 and #2 spark plugs so I changed cap. After checking wires coil and plugs I am still only getting spark on #1 and #2 spark plugs. Distributor post is solid with know play, so what is the problem ?
 
Verify lobes are indeed opening and closing points.
Now did you verify no spark at # 3 & # 4 plug?

Do you always start your TEA 20 with a hand Crank?..if so why?

Bob..Owner operator Tea-20 and other colored Tractors.

cvphoto11596.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:26 02/01/19) Might try new plugs??? Especially those that don't fire
Click to expand...
I said in my first post that I checked the plugs, all of them.
The reason I use hand crank to start, is that she usually always starts on the first crank. Plus a new starter is $460.00.
 
Wit all do respect,with the Dist.CAP removed, verify, do the points indeed open and close each time they pass by a lobe on the distributor shaft. Do the easy
things first.Is it possible the points are staying open?..yes.

Bob....
 
With cap removed, I can see the points make contact with each time it passes a lobe and I can see a spark at the points every time as they open and close.
When I check the spark on the plugs , I have all plugs removed from cylinder head.
And all the plugs I have grounded ,only #1 and #2 cylinder plugs give a nice blue spark.
The other plugs I get no sign of anything.
 
With the plugs out, so not fighting compression, crank the engine through while watching the spark at the coil wire to ground. Or connect a test light from the points side of the coil to ground. The light should come on when the points open, off when closed.

If the coil sparks every time, or the light flashes as it should, it's not the points.

If the coil fires intermittently, revisit the points, distributor shaft bushings, condenser. New points and condensers have a bad reputation out of the box.
 
Thanks for the tip Dude, I will try that next.

Side note: All the information that all you guys are giving me on this snag is very much appreciated, I thank you all very much.
 

My 1951 TED20 also starts first go off the crank , welcome to the club !
It also has an annoying habit of not starting after Winter or a very cold spell , by our mild standards anyway .
Each and every time this has happened I fixed the problem by replacing the condenser . Takes a few minutes and is cheap . The modern replacements are useless things , I keep a few on hand for this reason .
 
May I ask 6 Volt original or 12 Volt Converted or 12 Volt Original:

Your Location?

I may have parts:

Bob..Owner TEA-20 and several parts Tractors....TEA-20"s
 
(quoted from post at 19:11:16 02/01/19) May I ask 6 Volt original or 12 Volt Converted or 12 Volt Original:

Your Location?

I may have parts:

Bob..Owner TEA-20 and several parts Tractors....TEA-20"s
Click to expand...
Fixed the problem, the new points and condesor
Did not pan out so I got another set and all is good now.
She runs a little ruff but I will tend to that tomorrow.
She is converted over to 12 volt system
I live in Frankford Ont. Canada
 
Did you dismantle the starter to view the problem components?

I've had to two original 6 Volt starters converted to 12 Volts dropped off for repair...always the same failed components.


Bob...Alberta Summer...Arizona winter:
 
(quoted from post at 20:47:55 02/01/19) Did you dismantle the starter to view the problem components?

I've had to two original 6 Volt starters converted to 12 Volts dropped off for repair...always the same failed components.


Bob...Alberta Summer...Arizona winter:
Click to expand...
Don 't have a starter !
I hand crank.
 
(quoted from post at 17:47:17 02/01/19)
My 1951 TED20 also starts first go off the crank , welcome to the club !
It also has an annoying habit of not starting after Winter or a very cold spell , by our mild standards anyway .
Each and every time this has happened I fixed the problem by replacing the condenser . Takes a few minutes and is cheap . The modern replacements are useless things , I keep a few on hand for this reason .
Click to expand...

My 1948 TE-20 has not started when moisture has gotten to the condenser. Always solved the problem with a new condenser or using heat to dry the condenser. Is there any way to keep the condenser from absorbing moisture?
 
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