If you KNOW there is spark, and you KNOW there is fuel, then it's possibly an ignition timing problem:
Remove # 1 spark plug...plug closest to Radiator:
Remove STARTER so as to view Flywheel:
Turn engine over in direction of normal running/ operating direction..(attach hand tool to cap screw that fits into front drive of Crankshaft) Note when compression is present from # 1 spark plug bore: Not 1/4 diam hole in flange just below were starter is attached:
As you turn the engine over in the direction of normal operating / running direction,a 1/4" diameter HOLE in the FLYWHEEL shall align with the 1/4" diameter hole in the flange just below were starter is attached:
Insert appropriate tool 1/4" shank of drill bit so as to lock flywheel / crankshaft in place.
I DO NOT have my service manual with me as I'm away from my shop for several more months:
If I remember correctly, the hole in the flywheel shall align with the hole in the starter mounting boss at approximately 10 deg before top dead center of number one cylinder on the compression stroke?
Remove distributor cap....POINTS should be just starting to open.
The contact, inside the distributor cap that the ROTOR is aligned with....call that # 1 cylinder:
Note direction of rotation of rotor and insert the last remaining 3 plug wires in the order of the ignition firing.
As you seem to to have removed the front covers from the timing chain and drive components you should consider doing the below:
With starter removed,mark a tooth on the flywheel....metal marker...yellow...white..etc.
Place a similar mark on the face of the engine block where the starer attaches aligned with the tooth that yo have marked: Remove 1/4" rigging pin that yo inserted:
Rotate engine CW...CCW...CW...CCW several times and verify how many teeth must pass by the mark you placed on the engine before the ROTOR STARTS to TURN;
Info from one of the four TEA-20 I own:
The Governor weights were ready to fall off/detach from the holding pins. Chain, Sprockets, Governor ,Gaskets, Front oil seal were replaced at sometime in 1967> 1969 when a MAJOR was done to the ENGINE. I rotated the crankshaft CW/CCW and noticed 4 TEETH on the FLYWHEEL had to move before the DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR would move. Now only one tooth on the flywheel will pass before the Rotor moves. The governor was sticking at full throttle and would not idle down.
Info I compiled when REPLACING Crank sprocket ,Cam sprocket and Timing Chain.
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:
(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:
(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:
(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:
(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:
(6)There are NO timing Marks on the NEW Sprockets. You may wish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:
(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:
(8) It's good practice to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):
As you seem to be deep into the Cam / crankshaft drive area ......this is the one area that always suffers from "PREVIOUS OWNER SYNDROME". That is this area is NEVER given the rightful attention. When the FLY weights fall off and become jammed the chain and sprockets ...this is a true pain in the ARSSSS.
If you install new Cam sprocket,Crank sprocket,Chain,be sure to check with straight edge that the Cam sprocket aligns with the Crank sprocket. There was original SHIMS place behind the Crankshaft sprocket as per required:."PREVIOUS OWNER SYNDROME".
Do a comprehensive inspection of these Governor Fly weights:
All the best......these tractors are a beautiful machine..."PREVIOUS OWNER SYNDROME"....has cause a lot of problems:
Bob....Retired Power Engineer...Owner operator TEA-20's