another TO starting problem

I've read the recent post and also 8N troubleshooting. My 49 TO20 6V is baffling me. Since rebuilt six years ago by my cousin...a pretty good mechanic, it has run pretty well but infrequently as sits in a barn for months on end...I try to run it when I get a chance. A few months ago began not starting well then not at all. I monkeyed with carb (mistake I know) and then changed out gas as was a year old. Note two years ago I changed out condenser and coil as was having trouble starting and seemed to fix. Lately though just no luck at all. So after changing out gas, no luck. So started checking electrical. 6.24V at battery, switch, coil and distributor (the latter three when switch is on). I'm not getting the blue spark though when I hold distributor end coil wire near engine with switch on and starter cranking...but have good paint job...do I need to find or make bare metal? So out of boredom, since using volt meter it looked like I'm getting power to and out of coil and to distributor it could be condensor...I installed old condensor I took out two years ago. Bang...it started right up and sounded great...for two minutes or so, then starts chugging, coughing, trying hard but dies as if out of gas. I try to start and will not fire. Wait 1/2 hour and try, no fire. I'm not sure what possessed me but I open distributor again and unhook and reattach condensor...bang, starts right up and runs for two minutes or so and struggles hard then dies. Try to start and no fire. I repeated my experiment and it started right up again, and would not after dying. Could it be so simple as faulty condensor...seems like it but I'm not very smart in these matters and don't want to change things willy nilly. Thanks for the help...

Painted. . . . Does not seem to be an issue. That no start might be that silly condenser. I can say, don't go cheap. Napa should have one for
you. Flip side of the coin is your playing with wiring in the primary ignition circuit and that change in resistance might be effecting the
ignition coil. Once it runs for a few seconds, it fails again. As it fires, I would say your points are working.
If it was my toy, I would swap the coil and maybe the condenser, again.
The no spark is what I am looking at.
In fact, you could do the "Ford wiggle test" and see if you have any wires that might be broken internally. Especially at the ends giving you
a temporary connection. It runs, vibrates, wires open and it dies, if it passes the wiggle test, Then I would be looking at the coil at
least. Loose wire at the ign switch? Bad ign switch? Wiggle test with the DVOM and see what you get.

The new aftermarket ignition parts are notoriously bad. Possible that the points are damaged from the bad condenser. If it was bad...

Easy test for the points, put your volt meter from the distributor side lead of the coil to ground. Ignition on, watch the points and turn the engine until the points close. Voltage should drop to 0v. Points open, voltage back up to near battery voltage. If the voltage does not drop to 0, the points are not making contact or there is a bad connection between the coil and the points. The points may just need to be cleaned. Try contact cleaner and blot them with a business card, or try a fine file if that doesn't work. Be sure the distributor is clamped tight to the block, sometimes the distributor housing can loose it's ground.

Also check the distributor shaft for side play. It needs to have minimal movement for the points to stay set. Points out of adjustment will overheat and shorten their life.

I think your on the right track with the condenser suspicions. There are other posts with the same starting issues and probable condensers. If you are
not a purist with the tractor you may want to put in an electronic ignition system. It only takes 15 minutes to install, removes the condenser and points,
keeps your coil and 6 volt system intact. And they are here on the site in the parts store. Pertronix 6 volt positive ground. I use them on my two
everyday tractors and do not miss adjusting or replacing point.

One more thing to check since the tractor was sitting, take the distributor cap off and check that the rotor advance is working. Just turn the rotor by
hand, you should get about a 1/4? of play that springs back.

Also set your carb setting at about 7/8 turn on the small screw and 1-1/4 on large one.

Something else take drain plug out bottom carburetor and see if your
getting gas flow. Also if it has water.File and set points.