STRIPPED STARTER MOTOR STUD

Hi All

I went to replace my starter cable the other day as the one it came with was a mix of 3 different cables joined together.

As it turns out the stud/terminal out of the original 6V starter is badly stripped and I can only get the nut to just hold the cord in place ever so slightly.

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Is there an easy fix to this or is it possible to replace the entire stud? I had a look online and came across these https://www.external_link/ABC508-Starter-Or-Solenoid-Terminal-Repair-Stud.

Not sure if it would be suitable for my situation or not.

Does anyone know the original thread size on the starter stud?

Cheers, Ferg
 
Probably the easiest fix would be to stack some brass washers, get a new nut, hope it will tighten on the good threads at the end of the stud.

As for replacing the stud, not sure but good chance the other end is soldered to the starter leads. If you are not comfortable trying to replace it, try a starter rebuild shop, they could replace it.
 
Take a look at this. I am guessing you have a Lucas starter from the looks of it.
Part # 272022. Lucas sells what I call small parts kit but they call it Sundries.
I did not see it in there but did find this. Might be correct.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-Starter-M45G-Field-Coil-Terminal-Stud-272022-54266984-EACH/371557154931?epid=876375319&hash=item5682884073:g:~OEAAOSwQYZWxkMo:rk:1:pf:0
 

I should note that the model of my starter is M418G V139 as pictured below.


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I might have to see if I can get a look inside and see if said parts are compatible.

Cheers, Ferg
 
I don't think 5/16 by 24 TPI is going to work on this Lucas starter.
Work great on made in USA starters from 60 years ago.
 
5/16 translates out to 8 MM. Lucas stud was what size? Then again, it might be cheaper to throw a starter at it than a $5 attempt part.
 
I am guessing that Lucas used 20 TPI. That is what I have seen in the past on some stuff but not this specific starter. I think stud size is 5/16" or 3/8" inch with 20 TPI.
 
Might be but then again, that 20 TPI might have been the original size. Now it looks more like 15 TPI.
Stripped is stripped. This part just cuts new threads as it screws on. Your not dealing with steel, but a softer metal that should be conducive to having new threads cut into it.
I once purchased a tractor wit a stud saver on it. Worked just fine. Your experience might differ, It's just a $5 part because of a minor problem of trying not to buy a $150 starter.
No guarantees when trying to cobb something together.
 
Regarding the thread size, I only have a set of metric calipers handy. The reading on the good end of the bolt is 6mm so i'm guessing that equates to around 1/4 inch.

I have no way of measuring the actual thread type in the workshop at the moment.

Ideally i'd like to keep the 'original' starter as it works fine for now and I like the originality.

I think I might first take the option of re-threading the stud to 5mm and see how it goes. There has already been a couple of times I could have done with a tap & die set on this rebuild and my local automotive parts supplier has a reasonable set for around $50. Might be worth the investment to have the kit in the shed for future use as well.

Worse comes to worse I bodge it up and have to buy a new starter down the track.

Cheers, Ferg
 

I expect Lucas may have used a metric stud. Try a 6mm-1.0 pitch nut on the stud, or take the nut (if you think it is right and still has good threads) from the stud and try it on a 6mm bolt of that pitch. Once you confirm the fit, find a 6MM-1.0 coupling nut, they will be about 18mm (3/4") long. That should be long enough to use most, to all, of the threads on the stud and will likely hold just fine. If you take the nut to a place with a good assortment of fasteners you can try multiple sizes for fit, if it is not 6mm-1.0. A steel or stainless steel nut will be fine on the brass stud. You may need to go to a regular hardware supplier or McMaster to get one. There are solid brass computer case motherboard coupling nuts on eBay but it looks like they come from China. This may save you a lot of hassle.
 
I've done a bodge fix for now with a couple of 8mm brass nuts that I had spare as washers.


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I managed to get it pretty tight but I didn't want to push it too hard. I like your idea of a coupling nut. I think that might just do the trick. Next time i'm in town i'll go and see what my local nuts & bolts store has. I'm assuming you mean something like the manifold/exhaust stud nuts?

Cheers. Ferg
 
Good morning Ferg,

They might be the same but I think what you are calling a manifold nut I would call a deep nut. Those are a bit longer than regular nuts. I have attached a cut from a McMaster-Carr on the low strength metric coupling nuts with some strength info. I expect they are longer than your manifold nuts. They are also called standoff nuts by some. For your need I don't see the strength, or lack off, being an issue if you find any of the grades.
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