T0 30 setting the carburetor

Toyfarm1206

New User
I got my latest to 30 purchase running but can?t get the thing to idle without dieing. If I set it according to the rebuilt directions it won?t run without the choke. Also is 20 pounds oil pressure considered good?
 
When setting the carb, the idle must down around 400-500 RPM. Any higher and it will be partially pulling fuel off the midrange circuit.

Set the idle mix screw about 1 turn off the seat. Turning it in enrichens the mix, out leans it. You are actually adjusting air bleed, not fuel.

Other factors effect idle. A sick engine will never idle correctly, low compression is more noticable at low RPM's. Be sure the ignition system is right, valves adjusted, no vacuum leaks.

Twenty pounds of oil pressure, warmed up, revved up, is about normal. Warm slow idle anything above 5 is great.
 
20lbs is acceptable but expect it to drop when up to temp. Also I'd check the fuel flow out bottom of carb once it's drained.
 
it sounds to me your not getting enough fuel, check the stand pipe in the tank, then check the screen in the sediment bowl...the last screen to check is where the fuel line connects to the carb, there is a screen in there. Also, is there rust in the gas tank? How old is the fuel in the tank? As stated earlier, check the fuel flow from the carb drain...the carb may need pulled apart and cleaned.
 
Hi Steve, your advice/information on oil pressure 20 pounds working and 5 pounds at slow idle. Would that seem normal for a TEA 20, year of manufacture 53. That's usually what my tractor holds for oil pressure. Thanks, Murray
 
Your problem seems to be like the one I had previously. It was eliminated by opening the valve on the sediment bowl fully open , however many turns of opening it takes.
Information previously given to me was open two turns. Always had problem to get the tractor to run and not keep stalling. Hope his info might help you. Cheers, Murray
 
(quoted from post at 16:36:13 12/05/18) Hi Steve, your advice/information on oil pressure 20 pounds working and 5 pounds at slow idle. Would that seem normal for a TEA 20, year of manufacture 53. That's usually what my tractor holds for oil pressure. Thanks, Murray

I ran my TEA that way for 30+ years.
 
Murray, I would be happy with those pressures.

I don't have the specific pressure for that engine, but the generally accepted rule is 10 PSI per 1000 RPM at operating temperature.

Having personal experience with your own machine tells you what to always expect from it. It's when something changes is when to be concerned, drop or rise in pressure, different sounds, leaks, consumption, etc.
 
Hi Steve, the tractor is mostly used as a "TOY" do a little (land) plowing, few parades.
I have five old tractors on a 1/2 acre lot in the city. So they have a pretty good retirement home. This TEA was very much beat up and quite sad looking when it was brought home. My grandfather had one back in the early fifties that replaced a couple of teams of horses. They are nice for odd jobs here in the back yard. Cheers, Murray
 
I haven?t gotten back to it yet. I bought this one for fenders , grill and lights to fix my grandfathers that every one who ever worked here remembers raking hay with and by the looks of the fenders the rake got turned into a lot. I figured to see if it would run and after a carb kit it did. I?m swapping out the fuel tank for a clean one and replaced the fuel bowl that I can?t get to stop leaking. Right now since the tank is off I plan on running the valves, replace radiator hoses and redo the rat nest of wiring someone did and maybe do some food plots with it.
Thanks for the advice it?s been 30 years since I ran one.
 
Ran the overhead and replaced the sediment bowl and it runs like a top. Then dumped the transmission and rear end oil. Transmission oil looked like egg nog. Now I need to find a rear wheel and she will be ready to roll.
 

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