ZENITH 24-T2 CARBURETTOR SETTINGS

Hi Guys,

Now that I have got my 1949 TEA-20 firing up and running somewhat I am ready to tune it up a little bit. It has the Zenith 24-T2 carburettor on it. I would like to set all the screws back to stock standard first as I'm not sure what the previous owner had them set too and no doubt some bits and pieces may have moved a bit during the process of taking it off and cleaning it. The only information I've been able to find is that the main jet should be 2 full turns from the closed position and I'm not even sure that this is correct. Any information in this area would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Ferg

(quoted from post at 01:55:50 11/27/18) Hi Guys,
The only information I've been able to find is that the main jet should be 2 full turns from the closed position

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Two turns CCW is about right, with 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 being the usable range. Running too lean, 1 3/4, for long periods can be hard on valves, although it would use less fuel. CW will lean the mixture.

The idle is adjusted first to about one turn CCW. CW will richen the mixture.

Info I have used since 1975:
Info from original Ferguson Service manual:

(quoted from post at 19:55:50 11/27/18) Hi Guys,

Now that I have got my 1949 TEA-20 firing up and running somewhat I am ready to tune it up a little bit. It has the Zenith 24-T2 carburettor on it. I would like to set all the screws back to stock standard first as I'm not sure what the previous owner had them set too and no doubt some bits and pieces may have moved a bit during the process of taking it off and cleaning it. The only information I've been able to find is that the main jet should be 2 full turns from the closed position and I'm not even sure that this is correct. Any information in this area would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Ferg

Click to expand...

Hey
tassie, Pete from QLD here. I have infosheet on zenith carby pm me with email address.

I have the knurl knob on my TED tractors and i run them about 1 turn open ohterwise they run rich.

Do you have a workshop manual, i found the orignal on the net and its bloody useful.

Once again, great help. Thank you to all!

O.K. so now i'm back to square one I think.

My own fault for not making the carburettor adjustments once it was running on the previous settings. I can barely get a a pop out if the engine trying to start it now. I reset the settings to 'Standard' e.g. 1 turn open for throttle idle screw, 1 turn open for slow running screw & 2 turns open for the main adjustable jet. It was interesting to note that when i was resetting the screws that they all seemed to be unscrewed quite far from standard settings. Anyhow it won't start now and I have run the battery dead flat trying various other settings in the process. I should note my adjustable main jet has the knurled knob with a small round point on it. It appears that there is a few settings are standard depending on the main jet on your carburettor and I have got some conflicting information from various sources including a few publications. You would think I could get it to fire and run for at least a few seconds when i had it running and idling somewhat o.k. before making the adjustments. All i get is a slight pop from the engine and then it stops and the starter motor makes a big wind down sounds (kind of like a bomber siren from WW2).

Where to from here?

Cheers, Ferg

Disconnect fuel supply line from fuel tank at Carburetor and check for presence of fuel????? Reconnect line.
Remove drain valve on carburetor as per picture and verify fuel in Carburetor?????

If there is fuel in Carb.,check for ignition at plugs??????

Crank engine on Starter with choke applied...remove spark plugs check for signs of fuel "wet plugs"

If there is spark, and no signs of un burnt fuel on plugs.......well, there is a fuel blockage in the supply line and or carburetor, and or at the shut off valve at the Tank, and or a plugged screen in the Tank.

If there is fuel and spark.....read your procedure as to how to set/check the ignition timing:

Bob..

Hi


i run my TED20 one turn open with the round knob type jet. IT should fire though. So back to basics, are you getting Spark and fuel into the carb?

Incase float is sticking, Turn off fuel, drain carb, turn fuel on and see if it kicks over . Can be difficult to start if the float is stuck and its flooded.

I reckon your on the money with the stuck float. I thought I had fixed this when I cleaned out the carby and subsequently had the tractor running. I did try whacking it with a rubber mallet but didn't seem to help. There was some fuel flow back out of the air intake. I just assumed I might have just flooded it myself with trying to start it. There is fuel coming out of the carby when I unscrew the bleed screw. The plugs were also wet when I took them out to have a look so i'm confident fuel was getting though. How frequent a problem is this stuck float valve on these? I didn't think it would stick again this soon after having some decent fresh fuel running though it for a run the other day. After running should I leave it full of fuel or bleed off the remainder to avoid sticking again?

Cheers, Ferg

I may have been just fortunate over the years. Since 1974 I have never had a FLOAT stick and or any problems with flooding on my TEA-20.
With that said, the carb gets a good flushing / tractor gets a good work out of 120 hrs> per summer months.
I always add fuel stabilizer each October.
I did disassembled carb, and installed a kit once, as I'm more proactive than reactive .

Bob...Tea-20 and other colored Tractors.