Blocking a Clutch

Kadbow

Member
I have read here and there that blocking a clutch down to prevent it from sticking when the tractor is not used for awhile is a good idea. My
tractor is going to be idle for about 6 months over the winter, should I do this? Are there any cons to blocking the clutch? It is a TO 30, thanks
for any info.
 
I have several that don't get moved often and don't block clutch. Never had a problem. Also I have a G Allis that has a factory lever on clutch peddle to block it. Use it when I think about it. Don't know if AC had more of a problems.
 
Would be a good idea to block it down, that way it can't stick for sure. MF combines had a hole in the clutch arm for that same purpose, pull it down under the platform and stick a bolt through the hole to hold it down-released. While it may never stick, when it does you WILL be pizzed...
 
My sister in law has a new MF compact that has a factory hook for locking it down.

She didn't know what the hook was for.

I think it's more the storage condition (high humidity, temperature fluctuations) than design. However, I hear kevlar, ceramic, others are less prone to sticking than organic.
 
Clutch disc no longer have asbestos in them and the copper content as well as zinc is going down. That basically leaves you steel for clutch disc material on the basic clutch. If your clutch is old school and has not been replaced in the past 6 years plus, then the possibility of it sticking are greatly reduced. If your running a Kevlar clutch disc, such as the wife's TO-20, chances are it will not stick. I do not block the clutch on that machine and it has set for about a year with no problem in western Oregon with rain 9 months out of the year.
If you have a newer clutch then sticking will quite possibly be a problem. You can run a "c" Clamp around the running board and hold it open.
Once you stick that clutch, you generally need working brakes to free it up. Old tractors and working brakes are not common.
 
that may explain why the clutch I replaced on a TO-35 about ten years ago stuck while sitting in our garage over the following winter. my other 50+ year old machines (TO-35's) never had sticking clutch problems and all sat/sit for months over winters outside.

I now block them all.
 
(quoted from post at 23:23:26 11/03/18) Clutch disc no longer have asbestos in them and the copper content as well as zinc is going down. That basically leaves you steel for clutch disc material on the basic clutch. If your clutch is old school and has not been replaced in the past 6 years plus, then the possibility of it sticking are greatly reduced. If your running a Kevlar clutch disc, such as the wife's TO-20, chances are it will not stick. I do not block the clutch on that machine and it has set for about a year with no problem in western Oregon with rain 9 months out of the year.
If you have a newer clutch then sticking will quite possibly be a problem. You can run a "c" Clamp around the running board and hold it open.
Once you stick that clutch, you generally need working brakes to free it up. Old tractors and working brakes are not common.

"That basically leaves you steel for clutch disc material on the basic clutch."

NOT trying to "call you out", but for the benefit of us YT denizens lacking the "inside information" you obviously have, can you name some examples of "steel for clutch disc material on the basic clutch"? Have you ever seen a "steel" clutch lines disc?

In my humble experience, flywheels are typically cast iron, as is the plate in the pressure plate that bears down from the other side.

And the facings on the lines plate sure aren't "steel" either.
 
I have a TEA20 that I use to plow snow in the winter. We don't get a lot of snow so the tractor doesn't get used much, maybe once or twice a month from Dec. to Apr. It can be more if we get a hard winter. In spring, summer & fall, I use it to bushhog 5 acres of grass once a month, smooth out the gravel driveway & other odd jobs. So it doesn't see a lot of activity then either. I have just installed a new clutch and after reading this post, I am considering blocking the clutch when not in use. How far down does the clutch pedal have to be? Fully released or will partially down (3/4 down) do? I am using 3/16" cable wrapped around the foot rest to hold the clutch pedal down so to get the pedal fully depressed with enough cable to release the clutch pedal when I want to use the tractor will be difficult. Comments? Ron
 
Block pedal all the way down as in full release. I keep a cement block on my 8N ford and when I park it I set the block on the clutch pedal and it sits that way till I need the tractor again. It does not get used much because it has a backhoe on it but when I need it, it is nice to be able to use it with out messing with a stuck clutch
 

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