I have two questions:
1: What is piston to cylinder clearanace range on this z134?
2: I don't trust our local mf dealer with rebuilding the oil pump on this with the drilled set screw internal gears. Who do you recommend me send to?
Thanks
Jim
 
I forgot to ask:
When I tore this down the last person in it had put lock washers on the rod and main bolts.
I'm feared they may have over stretched these bolts. Being as I can't get original bolts. Will grade nine bolts torqued to spec.be ok?
Thanks
Jim
 
By the IT manual, new clearance is only stated as .0012. It doesn't give a range, but I would consider that to be the minimum clearance.

As for acceptable wear, "when a .005 x 1/2 inch feeler gauge requires less than 5 lbs pull on the spring scale to withdraw it." I'm serious, right out of the book! LOL

That's all I have, someone will come up with something better.

As for machining the oil pump gear/shaft, I don't blame you for not trusting the MF dealer. I'm surprised they will have anything to do with anything this old.

I would take it to a reputable machine shop, show them the procedure in the book if possible or have a sample piece.
 
I'm thinking they originally had lock washers, some kind of washers, don't remember for sure.

Probably wouldn't hurt to go back with new grade 8 lock washers.

As for the bolts, I would reuse them unless there is obviously damage. If they will hold torque, they will be fine. It's a slow turning engine, overbuilt, should have no problems.

But if you do replace the rod bolts, the rod bores will need to be checked by a machine shop that can rebuild rods. They will supply the new bolts, if available.
 
The rod-main bolts use lock washers--from factory. The rod bolts also have locking tabs(?) that holds bolts from coming lose.They go under lock washers. It bends around head of bolt and around shoulder of rods. Main bolts has holes for small wire to go thru to each bolt to keep it from coming lose. Some people don't use these. I always put them back on.
 
Thanks to all. I appreciate it sincerely.
Jim

Would anyone have the torque spec on the cam retainer plate bolts?
Thanks again.
 
I don't have a torque spec. There probably is one somewhere, but I just use my judgment and tighten them up.

There are bolt torque charts online. If you know the bolt grade and size it can be looked up there.
 
Here I go again: I can't get the flywheel studs out of the crankshaft. (had to buy new one due to oil pump internal gear broke and scored my mains)
would it be better to just buy new grade 8 bolts and forget the studs?
thanks in advance.
Jim the rods have already been turned down to .060, so new crank cheaper than buildup and turn down.
 

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