points & cond.

TO 20 have 2 both converted to 12v / 12V coils & resisters they both eat points & condensers 5 to 6 sets a yr each

i just can't be this DUM

i hope this can't be the norm ??

Help
 
Eating points is a sign of a bad condenser or coil and ballast resister not matching up. Have you replaced the condenser?? Good chance you have bad new condenser. I stopped replacing them years ago since so many where bad right out of the box
 
You can replace coil with build-in resistor coil and this will stop it. Take resistor
off when you do.Less connections.Don't know if you can even buy a coil that uses a
external resister.I never have trouble with points and condensers.
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:15 10/20/18) .Don't know if you can even buy a coil that uses a
external resister.

Yes you can. Any 6 volt coil can be used on 12 volts with an external resistor.
 
Going through that many sets of points, something is wrong, even with the poor quality aftermarket points.

You'll need to do some testing.

If you have an ohm meter, check across the + and - terminals of the coil out of circuit (disconnected from the distributor and ignition wire). For a coil that needs a resistor, it will read around 1.5 ohms. A coil that does not need a resistor will read around 3 ohms.

So, if you are using a resistor, the resistor should also have around 1.5 ohms. The goal is to add the coil resistance to the resistor resistance, and come up with about 3 ohms. This can also be checked with the resistor connected in series with the coil. The total again being 3 ohms.

Another method is to check the amp draw of the coil. If you have a DC amp setting on your meter, disconnect the distributor lead, connect the meter leads in series from the - coil terminal to ground, turn on the ignition. It should read 3 to 5 amps max. If more than 5, something is wrong. Be sure to do the test quickly, don't leave the coil powered up too long, it will overheat.

One thing to consider when buying a coil or resistor, check the part number and/or the rating actually printed on the part itself. Better yet, check it with your meter before leaving the store. Old style coils and resistors are not a big seller now. Many times the stock gets shuffled between stores, reboxed, easy to get mislabeled in the process.

Other things that will lead to short point life, a worn distributor. If there is any wear in the shaft bushings, the points will not stay set correctly. They may look good sitting, but once up and running they can change causing them to partially close, increasing the dwell time to the point they overheat. Also in some cases I have seen oil and crankcase vapors come up inside the distributor, coating the points with oil. Caused by a worn distributor, worn engine and restricted crankcase ventilation.

If you do decide to convert to electronic ignition, you still need to check the coil resistance or amp draw. Though electronic is more forgiving, it does have it's limitations.
 
changed my '54 30 to 6 volt electronic and it is awesome. cost a couple hours and about $150. Starts easy and quickly, battery lasts longer, longevity is 1.5 yrs so far.

I have a '53 with points, having a race to the finish!!!
 
changed my '54 30 to 6 volt electronic and it is awesome. cost a couple hours and about $150. Starts easy and quickly, battery lasts longer, longevity is 1.5 yrs so far.

I have a '53 with points, having a race to the finish!!!
 
I had my 6 cylinder tractor converted to 12 v. I still added an external resistor and haven't touched points in close to 20 years.
 

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