TEA 20 85mm clutch installation

RonON

Member
When installing a new clutch, does the long hub of the friction plate go towards the flywheel or away from the flywheel? I have read in some old posts that the clutch needs to be adjusted ie. that the distance from the flywheel to the fingers has to be 1.89" and has to be adjusted that way. Is this correct? Are they not preadjusted? If not how do you adjust it? Any other tips, comments appreciated. Ron
 
Long hub goes away from the flywheel or it will never work once tightened and you do it twice. Clutch fingers will change once you tighten everything down. If your not using a Kevlar clutch disc, always, ALWAYS, block the clutch open. New disc are much more steel and much more prone to freezing in place IF NOT blocked open.
As for the clutch cover or plate, the only thing you might concern yourself with is the fingers being even once tightened and after that comes the free play of the clutch pedal once assembled.
 
Bruce, Thanks for the orientation tip, I thought that that was right. What do you mean by "blocking" the clutch. I have never heard of this so want to know what it is and how to do it so I don't screw this up. I don't want to split it again soon, it's getting colder up here in Canada and my barn is not heated. Please reply with instructions etc. Thamnks again, Ron
 
I am hoping this is what Bruce meant. Hold the clutch pedal all the way down by any means possible. In the winter when it is not being used regularly I put a heavy plastic wire tie down through the foot board hole then back up through another foot board hole then with the pedal held down put the plastic tie around the clutch pedal and pull the tie so the pedal is held down. That way it won't be stuck when you want to use it again. Anything to keep the clutch pedal all the way down. I also have used a woodworking clamp to do the same thing.
 
Thanks for the explanation. I did look it up on the web and found a similar explanation. Is this related to damp conditions and rusting of the pressure plate to the flywheel? Only in the winter or in summer also? Or is to more related to a lack of use? Strange, I have had this tractor for a number of years and have never had the clutch freeze up. I use it in the winter to plow snow but we don't get a lot of the white stuff. I will have to plow the occasional 30 cm (1 ft) dump but generally a 10 cm (4 inches) every week to 2 weeks. So, while it is used during the winter, it may stand in the barn for a month or so. It is cool here so the humidity is lower than in summmer but it is still pretty humid for the temps due to the great lakes. In the summer I use it to bushhog 4 1/2 acres of grass every month so it runs for 1/2 day and then sits in the barn for the rest of the month. Anyway, you guys now have me scared and I am uncertain if I should concern myself with this but than again, I just might use the wired up method to be on the safe side. Ron
 
Have got everything installed and the tractor back together. However, when I push on the clutch it doesn't seem to engage. Is that because it needs to be adjusted with the 3/8" space between the backet support and the clutch pedal before engaging? Right now it doesn't seem to engage at all. Ron
 
I have preliminarily adjusted the clutch pedal so there is about 3/8"-1/2" between the clutch pedal arm and the foot rest support before I can feel the clutch start to engage. When I push on the clutch now I have some resistance from this point all the way to the bottom of the pedal motion, so I am assuming everthing is OK. Prior to the adjustment, there was no resistance i.e. the thrust bearing was not engaging the clutch until just before the pedal was all the way down. Now it starts to engage at the 3/8"-1/2" below the foot support rod. If there is anything else that I should check or adjust, let me know. I am hoping that this adjustment will engage the clutch properly. Ron
 

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