Splitting TEA 2085

RonON

Member
I am new to this forum and am seeking advice from all of you. I have a 1952 Ferguson TEA 2085 that is leaking oil from the the holes with the split pins in the bellhousing case suggesting either a leak from the rear crankcase seal or gearbox input seal. From what I read, to replace these seals I need to split the tractor. I have an IT shop manual that suggests separating and pulling the front away from the rear. However, a local tractor mechanic who does this type of work suggested that I do the opposite to avoid the wheels from turning and problems realigning when it comes time to put it back together. If I understand the difference between the two it is not large but is there any advantage of one over the other? If I pull the rear from the front, I need to block up the front firmly ensuring that a sand bag or a wooden board is under the engine sump as to not damage it and have a wheeled unit under the rear to move it back. If I pull the front forward away from the rear, I need to firmly block up the rear and have a wheeled unit under the front also taking precautions to not put a hole in the engine sump. Any other suggestions? What are the pros and cons of either method? When I have it split, what should I be looking for and what other issues should I look at while the tractor is split? There is also oil leaking under the sump where the hydraulic pump is located. This could be just the plug, gasket or possibly the PTO seal. I haven't inspected this too closely yet. What should I be looking for here? I am not a mechanic and this is my 1st attempt at doing this type of job so I would appreciate any suggestions, detailed advice, tips, helpsheets, websites with pictures or other sources etc before attempting to do this. Thanks in advance.
 

Moving the front is fraught with problems and annoyance , take your mechanic's advice . The engine will want to spin on the front axle once released from the rear , this is enough to hurt , maim or at least make you turn the air blue with bad language .
The rear tyres give you much leverage and so rolling the back end gently away from the fixed , supported and blocked front is easy .

Best tip I've ever been given was to use old head studs or similar long bolts with heads cut off as guides in the bell housing to centre and guide the back end back on when it comes time to re assemble
 
Hi. Welcome to the forum. Are we related? 8) :lol: I would recommend assessing the rest of the engine to see if it needs bearings etc. Can you do a compression test?

What is your oil pressure at start up and when the engine is very hot at idle? That is a quick way of assessing the bearings. The bearings can also be measured by pulling the oil pan and using Plastigauge.

I prefer the block the rear and pull the front. But I bought an inexpensive engine crane and used a small engine stand, It is a lot easier replacing the rear main seal with the engine upside down, than on your back. Especially the felt strips. Take a look at my first saga... https://www.greyfergieforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2309&hilit=engine+knock
 
No I don't think that we're related Ron (Ont). Where are you located? Thanks for the advice but I am most interested in getting the seals fixed right now. Checked out the link you sent, didn't make it all the way through but looks like mostly engine things, am I correct? Charles, I agree that going with blocking the front and pulling the rear back is the best option right now. What do you think about using jack stands supporting boards under the engine sump for holding the front end up during this process? Do I really need sand bags or will 2 x 6 boards provide enough uniform support? Any other suggestions or pointers from anyone out there?
Ron
 
I am near London, On. If you get as far as page 5 and 6 you will see the use of the crane and engine stand. But, if you do not want to remove the front axle, pulling the rear end back is definitely better. Replacing the rear main seal that way is not much fun though.

You could us 2X6's either side of the drain plug. Use some pieces of tapered cedar shingles is a good way of supporting the oil pan curves. Remember that the oil pan is a magnesium alloy and easily cracked.
 
By the way the IT manual is not of much use for yore TEA engine. The TE20 in the IT manual is a Continental engine made in the US where yours is a Standard engine from England.
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:42 09/11/18) What do you think about using jack stands supporting boards under the engine sump for holding the front end up during this process?

With care and good management that should be fine . Use timber wedges between the engine and axle and jammed against the radius rod mounts to stop the engine rotating .
Another trick while re assembling is to use a ratchet strap around the two halves to coax them together . Not to force them as such but rather to allow a constant gentle encouragement until everything slides together along the guide bolts .
 
Anyone have an idea of how much the front end weighs when separated from the rear end? I have a post & beam barn so have 1'x 1' timbers across the ceiling supported by 1' x 1' timbers from the ceiling to the floor. I could hook up a 3 chain hoist (block & tackle) to a cross timber to hold the front end up when I separated the front from the back. I currently have a 1/2 ton chain hoist and was wondering if that was enough. This way I can move the front end up & down when it comes time to put it back together. I only have 1 floor jack and my jack stands are too high when completely lowered so I thought that this might be an option. Just an idea that I thought that I would pass by you guys. Any comments? Ron
 

A Grey Fergie weighs a little over one Imperial ton, 2300 lbs , as it stands on its tyres . The engine is a fair lump but much of the weight of the tractor in comprised of the rear cast iron transmission casings and the transmission components themselves .
By splitting the tractor you are more than halving the weight and as much of the front end will remain on the front wheels you are almost halving that weight again .
Without actually seeing your shed it's hard to be certain but it does seem as if the chain block will be more than adequate .
 
Hi Ron


I have done 2 splits of tea20s.

I have used a hoist to support lift the motor on standard garage timber trusses in australia, Gues these are 4x2 inches, or a tad smaller. I used a board to spread the load over a number of beams and attached the hoist to it, I had some creaks but no problems.

I used engine stands with a piece of timber to support the engine and rolled the rear end away, I did this with both the front end attached on one tracker, chocking the radius arms. Also on the other did the same process of supporting the engine with the front end removed.
 

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