Farmall H - What Engine Oil?

Yes, because it meets the gas engine specifications, along with diesel. The 40 will reduce oil burning slightly in place of SAE 30.
 
Yep,15.40 oil is just fine.Use it in all my tractors(15),trucks,combines,ATVs,lawnmowers........One oil,Keeps it simple!Got a SuperM that has had 15/40 for 35 years,A 'bazillion' hrs,usesNO OIL,runs as good now as it did 35 years ago
 
Some of the family used one 40 years and had Quaker state, Valvoline, kendel and I can't remember all the others and the crankshaft or camshaft was never out of it. Probably anything you use for gas or diesel and around the correct weight should work now.
 
My experience too. We had a discussion earlier on oil bath air cleaners. Your experience validates the oil bath air cleaner too. Nothing like experience.
 
Keep in mind that 15w-40 means you have a cold start of 15 weight, but that you never actually reach 40 until you get to operating temperature, which means around 210 degrees F. which I doubt your H would ever reach, even in Texas. MOdern multigrades are based on automotive operation, not tractor engine temps. Therefore, where I live, (NY) a single grade (30 wt.) probably works better since none of my tractors probably never see an operating temp of more than 160-170 degrees. Just my .02
 
Good point. Even after hours on the baler working fairly hard at full throttle my old tractor seldom breaks 160-170 on the thermostat.
 

Just be sure to read the label and make sure it is 15-40 DIESEL oil. Not all 15-40 oil is rated as diesel oil. The diesel rated oil has the additives these old engines need to protect the camshaft and lifters.
 
Flow is according to oil temperature. If the 15-40 doesn't get to the temperature to make it 40 weight it doesn't need to flow like 40 weight unless the engine is worn bad. Probably would get to the 30 weight like you are running at the temperatures you said.
 
No. The H was originally run on nondetergent oil with practically no additives. Any modern oil (and almost any weight) will give it many times the protection it needs. As someone posted a while back whale blubber would probably work.

The zinc additive needed to protect lifters and cams is only needed on high performance engines with heavy valve springs, long duration cam lobes and flat tappet lifters and then only during breakin. This H is long past the breakin stage.


With modern emissions on diesels the zinc has been almost eliminated in diesel engine oil anyway (tier 4 engines).


http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/
 

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