Farmall 560 Diesel questions

A friend of mine, bought a 560 Diesel. It had the head removed, as the head gasket had blown.
We had the Head planed, and checked over, and it is now installed.
It had some other issues, which we fixed. There was also some bad wiring that was replaced too.
The glow plug meter had been broken, and bypassed, so a new gauge was installed and rewired up. When I pushed the glow plug warm up button, the gauge pegged to the right, so I turned the wires around on the gauge. It still pegs out to the right. Is it supposed to work like that? I had a wiring diagram, and I'm sure I have it wired correctly. Or do I have an injector shorting out? The injectors were checked and I presumed to be in working order.
Another question, is the mechanical fuel shut off lever on the injector.
As it sits, there is a spring that pulls the lever backwards, toward the rear of the tractor.
I know there is a push pull button on the dash, that runs down to the injector to the lever. the way the spring is hooked, the button would be naturally pulled out. I believe the spring should be hooked so that the button on the dash should be pulled out to shut off fuel supply.
Sorry I sound a little stupid, but I haven't worked much on Diesel engines. Any advice is always appreciated

Glow meter should peg out.

Need pics of this spring.

You really need a manual for this thing to be sure you have it assembled and time right.

I wasn't sure if it should peg out. I thought that as the glow plugs warmed up, it would start from the right of the gauge, and slowly move to the right, as they warmed up.
I did forget to mention, that the push button for the glow plugs, works sluggish. I can push it in, and it will slowly come out. Unless that's the way it works.
As far as a manual, I do have one, and I'm pretty mechanically adept. I mostly work on gas burning engines, and have not worked much on diesels.
As for the injector, it was never removed from the engine. Only the head was removed for repair.
The person we bought it from, had the sheet metal, gas tank, and the head off, when we picked it up. Some things were disassembled, so that's why I'm asking the questions.

No spring originally on the shutoff. Some one put it on to make sure it stayed I run position so it should be thrown away or hooked so it is in run position, ahead.

(quoted from post at 15:12:55 02/20/15)
As far as a manual, I do have one, and I'm pretty mechanically adept.
As for the injector, it was never removed from the engine.

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Don't mean it is timed right.

The manual shows the stop cable connection to the pump????

In a D 282 engine there are 1 injector and 1 glow for each cylinder there for 6 injectors and 6 glow plugs. There is 1 fuel pump on the left side of the engine towards the front. I have had a 560 Diesel since 1965 and also own a 560 gas so I am trying to hit just a few high points so as to not confuse you. Where are you located? It would be best if you could find somebody local that can help you. Some more information: DO NOT USE ETHER TO START ENGINE! How cold does it get in your area? If below 32F you will need to plug in a 1500 watt (or larger) engine heater for at least 2 hours. To start engine be sure what looks like a chock cable (fuel shut off cable) is pushed in, advance throttle not more than 1/2 open, hold glow plug button for at least 1 or 2 min. (longer if below 32f.) than start engine while engaging glow plugs. When engine starts close throttle and release glow plug button. With the low sulfer diesel full that we now have the fuel pump will develop external leaks. Your fuel suppler will know about the sulfer content of your fuel and if he is selling you bio diesel or straight diesel. You do not want the bio additive in cold winter. Any questions please ask. You will want to have manual in hand as you look at tractor. Clutch and Torque Amp. need to be adjusted as the book tells you. Hope I have not confused you too much as this is a good tractor to own and enjoy. Armand

Still don't know if there is supposed to be a spring on the fuel shut off lever, but it does remind someone who is running the tractor, that the lever is on, till you need to pull it out, and shut off the fuel.
Not saying whose wrong, but tried the glow plugs, and tractor wouldn't start. grey puffs of smoke came out of the muffler.
So we plugged it in, and after 3 hours of us having coctails, we tried it, and it started. Sounds very good, and after a few stops, and trying to start, it did every time.
Will try in the morning, and if not, will pull glow plugs, for confirmation, that they work.
Not saying I know everything, by a long shot, but do know characteristics about an engine, if it will pop off, or not.
Will check glow plugs in the morning, but thanks to the block heater we installed, it fired, after being warmed up. The injector was timed, afterall. Guess I knew what I was doing afterall. No heated debates here, but honest input. I appreciate anyone who answered to this post, but sometimes, those who answer to the posts, need to listen to the poster too.

So are you saying it was in time or not????

If you have the right manual it shows the stop cable connection.
See Pete's post, he answered your question.

Unless real cold it should start with the glow plugs, if you gave a temp I missed it.

Again if you have the manual the procedure for glow plug testing is in there.

Lastly I do try and read what the poster writes but for some jobs a manual is required and most do not say the have manuals and in general an IT manual is no sub for the factory manual.

Anyway, glad to hear you have it running.

Yes the injector must be in time, as it started. What I was trying to get across, was that, this tractor was a running tractor. It blew a head gasket, and was pulled apart enough to get the head off. Thats how we picked it up.
As far as a temp goes, it's inside a shop, heated to around 55 degrees.
Paul, said he checked the glow plugs, by connecting them each to a battery charger, and determined if they heated.
It wouldn't start using the glow plugs though. So we plugged in the block heater for about 2 hours. The block warmed up, and the tractor started. We did a bunch of cranking, to get the fuel up to the injectors, then tightened the lines.
One thing I did notice though, was that the glow plug gauge pegged and stuck when pushing the button in. A tap on the glass, would un stick it once the button came back out.
I admit, I do not have a service manual, but the IT manual, so I'm limited as to what I can check.
If it don't start with the glow plugs this morning, I'm going to pull the glow plugs and check them again.
When we were trying to start it, Paul was holding the glow plug button in, as he was cranking the engine over. Never heard of that before. What is your thought on that?
If the IT book shows it, I may try to check the timing on the injector, to see where it is at.
As for pictures, I took some of the injector pump, but not sure how to attach it here, so you can see what.
As for that spring, I did hook it, so it pulled the lever foreward, and hooked it up to the cable. So when we pull out on it, it will shut off the fuel at the pump.

You do know that the glow plugs need to be on for about 45 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes depending on temp??? And held on while you crank the engine.

All you need to test them is an amp meter, no need to pull them out.

So far as timing, I got mine running but it always sounded a bit off. It timed to fast when I checked it and now starts better as well.

Those glow plugs are super sensitive to high voltage so checking them on a battery charger would be pretty risky. You can check each glow plug very easy on the tractor with several methods. Easiest, unhook all but one and that should move meter close to half way. Do that with each one. I have never tried hooking the meter backwards but I would have thought it would read wrong direction. Never tried it though, might not. Should not stick but who knows with meters now days. I always hold them down while cranking engine also as they will cool down in just a few seconds and even faster when you are spraying fuel on them.

(quoted from post at 06:18:24 02/21/15) You do know that the glow plugs need to be on for about 45 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes depending on temp??? And held on while you crank the engine.

All you need to test them is an amp meter, no need to pull them out.

So far as timing, I got mine running but it always sounded a bit off. It timed to fast when I checked it and now starts better as well.

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Everything looks the same in your picture, as this tractor. However, the spring is in place of the clamp for the cable, and another bracket was made for the cable.
Thanks for the advice on how long to activate the glow plug button. We were only holding in for about 30 seconds. But sitting in the shop last night, without heat on, it did start. We had 14 degrees overnight too.
As far as testing the glow plugs, I had the charger set on 2 amps, and held long enough to see some smoke coming off the glow plugs.
Does the glow plug button pop right back out, when you release it, or does it slowly come back out. This one comes out slowly, and when pushing it in, you need to push on it, as there is some resistance.
you also mentioned the timing wasn't quite right on your injector. Did you take the cover off, and reset, or did you do it running, to tweak it?

I set timing per the manual.

I see no need for the spring you described if the cable is good.

Mine is hooked up like shown in the manual.

Glow button comes back a bit slow on mine too. Button is tough to hold in, time it on your watch as it takes twice as long as you think to heat them up.

That circuit should test about 50 amps if all 6 are working right.

Here is a picture of a 560 that I'm working on. It has a spring that has been added by PO to help pull the shutoff back to the run position.