Questions about a 1941 Farmall H I recently acquired.

Hello. I recently acquired a 1941 Farmall H, s/n 65085. It was to be a project for next summer but we got started early. I have it pretty much disassembled but have a few questions I am hoping someone can help out with.

1. Which clutch this is? I noticed there are 3 diferent ones listed for an H. Do I need to replace the pressure plate or can I get away with new springs, clutch disc, TO bearing and seal?


2. Which carb us this? I would like to get the correct rebuild kit. This was originally a kero/distalate motor. I found the manifold has slots where the carb bolts on. the carb appears to be the smaller bolt pattern. Interestingly, the carb had 1 bolt and no gasket holding it on the manifold. The other hole in the manifold had a bolt but wasn't going through the carb. I am hoping that is why they parked the tractor. The owner was noted for just parking them in the field and getting another.



3. Which hub is correct for a 1941? It has 1 of each and the one on the left is damaged.



4. Any idea how to free this up? It will not move. I can get the shaft out by pulling the cotter pin. Should I use heat or is there an easy way?



5. Lastly, is there a list of the chassis seals that convert to a standard part number? I am hoping to find the seals at a decent price. I found that going through Erie Bearing seals are about 1/4 the price of online for other projects.

Thanks for your help. I am sure there will be alot more questions down the road.

..Tim

PS: here is a link to all the pics I have taken of the tractor..
http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/theoldsledguy/library/Tractors/Farmall%20H%201941

1. Less trouble to just get a clutch and pressure plate as a kit.
2. Dunno
3. I think both were available.
4. Heat *IS* the easy way... Not sure why you think it isn't.
5. Any good bearing/seal shop should be able to take your IH part numbers and cross reference them.

That's a Pepsi clutch,[LOL} to me it looks like a Rockwell , which was very popular. Be sure to reface the flywheel, and dont reassemble it with greasy fingers. As far as the crank pin, it looks very rusty but i got one loose this summer with Penetrating oil and tapping it every day for a week! Good luck

The carb looks like the standard carb used on all
the H tractors I've been around.

The super h was different.

The small round brass tag on the top half of the carburetor should have the part number. The doc's I've got show 50981DA for Gas, 45108DB for Kerosene.

I know kit's are available for the 50981 carb... not sure about the other one, or if it even matters that much. I'm sure someone else can comment on that.

good luck, looks like a nice little project

--b

The hub on the left is for adjustable front tread and the one on the right is fixed width tread. Either is correct. You could probably find a complete pedestal with both hubs and wheels matching cheaper than individual parts.

If the carb number on the tag starts with a 5 it's gasoline, if 4 then it's a distillate carb. The difference is in the drilled emulsifier tube that goes from the jet into the throat of the venturi.

If it's originally distillate it will work fine on gasoline. You will simply adjust the main jet accordingly.

On the clutch it really depends on the condition of the flywheel and pp surface, which we can't see in the photo. Also if these surfaces are flat or not. You can check each with a good straightedge and use your judgement.
Ideally you would have flywheel and pp ground and new springs and fingers on pp as well as re-line the disk. It depends on how hard you intend to work the tractor. The offset is any material ground off can't be put back and as far as I know they aren't making new H flywheels.

If you have a good local shop they may be able to do a better job than ordering a mystery set online. I just got a disk for an M re-lined locally for about 60 bucks. They used good Raybestos material and the owner of the shop backs his work.

As already mentioned, the small round , brass tag on the top has the carb number on it, but in reality, the number is irrelavant because you will not be running the tractor on kerosene or distillate anyhow. Get the kit for the 50981, gasoline carburetor. It will readily interchange and fit all H carburetors.

(quoted from post at 11:48:40 10/02/14) The small round brass tag on the top half of the carburetor should have the part number. The doc's I've got show 50981DA for Gas, 45108DB for Kerosene.

I know kit's are available for the 50981 carb... not sure about the other one, or if it even matters that much. I'm sure someone else can comment on that.

good luck, looks like a nice little project

--b

Click to expand...

Thanks. I found the carb tag reads 50981-DC So it was converted to gas. Thanks for the info. I will get that kit.

..TC

Rockford 10 inch clutch. Pressure plates were made to be repaired. Depends on condition and your skill.
Front wheel on right was the most common for 41 and probably what came on the tractor since it looks like a K on the date code.
Probably has a aftermarket manifold, they had slotted holes to fit H through 350 carburetors.
To remove the engine crank the ratchet part in the bolster needs freed. Besides removing the cotter pin the thin tin sleeve under the spring needs to slide to remove the pin under it to remove the cranking shaft. Also has a retaining ring to keep the tin from coming off the crank ratchet.
When like yours it takes time and patients to get off without damage. Sometimes that doesn't work. To much heat will mess up the spring and tin sleeve if needing to save them.
On the seals find the IH numbers and a cross over chart.

You will want to get a rebuilt clutch and pressure plate, and
new pilot bearing for the flywheel.

The carb question has been covered.

The advice to get a new pedestal with matching hubs is good
advice...not too hard to find. I have one myself if you would
like it...reasonable. Located in Northern Minnesota.

As for moving the hand crank setup, taking out the cotter key
only lets it slide backwards a bit...not to remove it. If you look
closely, there is a stepped collar on the shaft end...it is very
thin metal and you need to heat it carefully to slide it forward in
order to drive out a straight pin holding the assembly together.
Once that is apart, you can pull the shaft and remove the rest.

Get a parts manual or look up the diagrams on line to see a
diagram.

I agree, just get a reman'd clutch and pressure plate, preferably from Case-IH dealer, then do not try to re-adjust them, just stick them in.
Clutch should have an oil flinger plate, it should go on the forward side.
Be aware, that taper-bolt wavy 4-bolt plate at the end of the drive shaft, will go in either way; install it with the most space inside it, not with the closest fit inside it. [If that makes sense...] If you install if with the least amount of space inside, and you actually can do it, the drive shaft will not go inside the pilot bearing, and it'll whip around and destroy things. LOng sad story...

Thanks guy's for all of you help in info. I know I have alot of reading and internet searching to do. I should have spent more time looking before posting questions. This project was originally to be for next summer. My good friend and farming buddy, Mr McClintoc, turned 74 last week. Since we picked up the tractor, he has put me on the fast track taking it apart. He is retired and is down every day mentioning something to do on it. He is like a kid with a new toy. He would have liked to start and ride it last week. Normally this time of year we are focusing on snowmobiles. My plan is to get everything cleaned and gone over and spend the winter months cleaning up the smaller stuff, getting it primed, have the engine in long block form and get the misc parts together. On the nice days of spring, spray it and have the parts to assemble it. After paint, I let him loose, it will prob take 2 weeks to put together. That's pending I didn't forget anything.

I have the old service manual to read and have the "how to restore Farmall tractors" that I am getting a primer on.
I am looking for a parts number manual. When I look on http://www.messicks.com/CAS/59088.aspx blow up diagrams, I can't seem to equate the p/n to the actual part number.

One question I have is "how far do I take it apart"?

Below is a 'field find' picture and one that is current . I drained the fluids in the hyd, trans and dif. Was planning on filling with kero for winter so it could soak. Put my finger in the dif drain hole and stuck a sliver of metal in it along with sludge. Gears all seem to work. Its 70+ years old. What do you guys recommend? Worry about it later or is there anything to look at. Is there anything thing to check other than the gears all working and the pto?

Thanks again for all your help. This is going to be a great ride.

..Tim

www.nobrainsracing.com

Where you're at now, I would pull the belt pulley drive and then pull the top cover. With the help of a cherry picker it will only take half an hour. (with any cooperation from the bolts.)

Get three five gallon buckets, a 1 or 2 gallon pump sprayer and 5 gallons of diesel. Put one bucket under the case drain and one under the transmission drain and go to spraying. Use a rag or two and strain the diesel into the 3rd bucket and re-use. Things will get surprisingly clean!

The worst trash accumulates the transmission gears and under the bull gears (as you've already found). The metals and bits will settle out of the diesel right away and the rag will catch almost all the rest. Sitting overnight will allow a whole lot more to settle to the bottom of the bucket.

With the cover off, check how much play is in the pilot bearing and input shaft assembly.

If it were mine I would pull and re-seal the axle housings too. They are usually full of old grease from greasing the outer bearing. It won't hurt anything to leave it, but while you're in there.....