Another successful farmall h 12 volt conversion (w/pics)

First, Thanks to Bob M and Gerry Powell for their wiring diagrams in the archives of this site. I used a little of both guys ideas in my conversion (I liked the idea of a 30 to 40 amp fuse so incorporated a 40 amp fusible link in my wiring and went with the diode instead of the idiot light).

a) Purchased a little Hitachi Alternator 14231 (about $45 with online coupons/discounts from Advance Auto and lifetime warranty).
b) Removed the nut on the new alternator and stuck the lockwasher between the pulley sheaves. Reinstalled nut with blue locktite. This makes the pulley on the alternator the same width as the water pump pulley.
c) Flipped original generator bracket upside down and drilled a new 11/32" hole inboard roughly 3/8" from original generator holes.
d) I used 8MM threaded rod. (5/16" would be almost identical equivalent in American size but a whisker smaller. 3/8 rod could be used also, but you will have to drill alternator as alternator only has 8mm holes). I double nutted every location for secure locking.
e) My original belt was shot. Carefully selected a 30.5" belt as a replacement. Tight fit, but that is what I wanted for maximum adjustability as belt stretches over time. Even then there will not be lot of adjustment on an h as it is tight under the hood.
f) Rebent and slotted the original top generator bracket for some adjustment.
g) Chrysler style resistor #RU19 also from Advance Auto installed for ignition coil (about $4).
h) All terminal ends were were crimped, then soldered, and finally heat shrink wrapped.
i) Fast easy starts, a cheaper yet more durable 12v battery that will last more than the 2-3 years that I usually get from 6 volt, not to mention better lights - priceless.....and no regrets
j) Next up my Farmall M (It will get an identical alternator but it should be much easier since there is so much more room under the hood on an M)

Here is my H. I put the resistor up under the hood for a stock appearance.

Very nice guys. this is on my to do list someday.

Here's mine from a couple of years ago. Converted

(quoted from post at 01:48:14 08/11/14) ...
Here's mine from a couple of years ago. Converted...

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merlynr,

Is that a wood shim I see under the nosepiece sheetmetal in your pic? Did you have to shim everything out in order to create enough room for the large bodied Delco alternator?

Yes, it was supposed to be temporary for testing purposes. I wanted to close the hood and see how much clearance. I also put some thick rubber (1/2"x1/2"X 2")on the alt. The hood actually latches as good as before with closer lines and have a little room for belt adjustment.
Next time(haha) I will use a smaller alternator.

you won't ever regret changing to 12 volts,6 volt systems were a get by at their best I reckon that's why most tractors came with a hand crank even though they had an electric starting system,use to be a common site to see someones tractor,truck, combine ect parked on starter where I was raised

Great choice Rankrank1 on the Hitachi alternator, nice compact size. There isn't really any reason to have the massive delco on letter series tractor. The Hitachi 37 amps is more than enough to charge the battery up after starting & keep the ignition running. I brought brackets from CharileU on this form instead of making mine.

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Rankrank1, please don't take my posts the wrong way. I was just showing you pictures of brackets for a H with a the same alternator is all. You did a fine job of installing the alternator. Good to see you didn't install a 100+ delco amp alternator.

(quoted from post at 06:07:21 08/12/14) Rankrank1, please don't take my posts the wrong way. I was just showing you pictures of brackets for a H with a the same alternator is all. You did a fine job of installing the alternator. Good to see you didn't install a 100+ delco amp alternator.

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Not sure what you posted that I would take the wrong way. I considered welding up a custom bracket similar to the CharlieU bracket (and like yours). Even went as far to buy a piece of scrap steel cut-off drop that I intended to use to make it. I have welders so it would not have been too difficult at all to weld one up. But it was just so darned easy to do it the way I did it. Anyone can do it that way that I did it. I will admit that it is not as pretty as a custom bracket would be in appearance. That said, none of it is visible at all with the sheet metal on the tractor anyway so appearance is not really a factor since it is so well hidden.

The Hitachi fits very nice and provides optimum clearance to the sheet metal especially if you take the time to drill 2 new holes in the bracket instead of using the old existing bracket holes. My new holes are roughly 3/8" from the edge of new new hole to the closest edge of old hole.

Flipping the stock bracket provides a nice benefit of raising the alternator slightly which is beneficial. Had I even custom made my own brackets I was going to build in the slight raising feature.

Anyway, I have plenty of clearance to the sheet metal. At least 1.25" maybe even 1.5" or a tad more (no problem sticking my hand up there and well past my knuckles). I will have to make me up some crude feeler gages from some scrap plywood remnants and truly measure it.

I liked Mark-MI idea and ended up moving my resistor to a similar location. Hides it, but more importantly keeps it out of the weather.