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Thanks for the advice

T

truckerlary

Member
Want to thank Jim Nicholson, Old, Owen Aaland, and Gene Bender for the advice on trying to unstick the clutch on my neighbors H. Tried some of the ideas to no avail, ended up taking the inspection plate off and going up into the clutch disc with a long punch and a hammer. A couple taps on the disc and it freed up. Thanks for the help. I do have another question though. I bought a used short block to put in an M that I bought that was needing an engine. The numbers on the block are 6722DB. Do these numbers tell me what it is and what year block? Thanks Larry
 
If the old block was not broken or damaged you might have been better off rebuilding it. Doing the old IH engines is not a machine shop job on bottom considering the sleeves and all. In the worst case a new set of sleeves, seals, pistons, and crank bearings and the bottom is almost redone. You do not need a shop for any of that as long as the crank does not need turning and there are no cracks. A good head job should be done by a machine shop if it can be arranged. Most of the short block is used to hold the cooling water and oil in separate compartments and serve as a framework for the pistons/sleeves and the crank. Even cracks and breaks can be welded or brazed up and sealed if needed since the exterior walls carry very little stress.
 
It's always amazing how the rust of dissimilar metals holds like a weld. Had a 78 Oldsmobile 88 with chrome reverse wheels. Took a sledge hammer every time to get them loose from the rear brake drums. Tried grease, anti sieze etc. Nothing prevented it. Never cracked a wheel or hub though.
 
I haven't tore into the original engine as of yet but what I'm seeing is the front crank pulley is moving up and down about 1/8 of an inch or so when you pull on the fan belt. I'm thinking it's going to need some serious machining. Larry
 
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