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Thought I had the H fixed.

S

Shop teacher 94

New User
Reset the points on the H today. started up and ran great...for 5 minute...then died. Restarted it up and it ran for 20 and died.

Checked the fuel flow...all is good.
Cleaned the screen on the fuel intake...
set the mixture to run a little leaner..

Ran great for an hour at mid idle...

Took it out and started pushing a little dirt around to give it a bit of a work out.
First ten minutes were great. Did what i wanted too...then it started backfiring again and lost a lot of power...

With it still running, i adjusted the magneto to see if timing was off...where ever I moved it just screwed it up worse. so I put it back where it was. Noticed a spark out of the lead wire from the coil to the cap...switched out the wires and now I cant get it to start again.

Any ideas?
 
What kind of wires did you replace them with?
Are you sure you got the firing order right?
Have you checked for spark at the plugs with the new wires?
Does it start if you switch back to the old wires?

If you do get it running and it runs ok, use it and then when it starts acting up again, give it some choke.

If the choke straightens it out then it's a fuel problem.

If the choke kills it it's an ignition problem, most likely.

I don't know a lot about magnetos but it could be that the coil is breaking down, causing the spark to become erratic.
 
THought of the wires as well. Went out and replaced
the lead wire with a lead wire from an old Honda I
have. Believe it or not worked like a charm. went
out put it to work again...did the job. Now I just
need to figure out the smoke issue. Blue/gray smoke
out the stack.
 
Blue grey is oil. Black is too rich/fuel. Do a compression test. Reset the valves. Watch your rocker assembly and pushrods while the engine is running with the cover off.
 
You can adjust the mag all you want and it does not affect the timing when starting it fires on TDC T hen when ngine runs goes to 33 deg advance and you cannot change that. You have a bad coil or condenser and to change the condenser you need to remove the mag from the engine.
 
Rethink what you just posted. Advanced too far & it will kick the crank or starter. Retarded it will labor & not have full power. Should impulse at TDC.
 
my H did the same thing one time , found that the spark plugs where the problem , mine only likes champion D21 plugs , nothing els or it wont run right , but the other problem is ive gotten new champion plugs straight out of the box that where no good , also set the gap ,there too close out of the box , just for the record them IH mags. dont give you enough timming adjustment to cause it to run that bad , youd only notice bad timming under hard load, or kickback / hard start, when hand starting, would mostly cause lack of power or overheating , but would still run smooth
 
The mag on the H cannot be advanced by rotating on the tractor as the armature is locked to the tming gear and all you do is rotate the field does not change the points setting you must not be familiar with the H-4 MAG
 
(quoted from post at 13:16:08 07/11/13) The mag on the H cannot be advanced by rotating on the tractor as the armature is locked to the tming gear and all you do is rotate the field does not change the points setting you must not be familiar with the H-4 MAG
Click to expand...

Timing of a magneto is affected the same way as timing of a distributor. In both cases the rotating member does not change in relation to the timing gears but, in both cases, the points themselves are rotated which does affect when the spark occurs.
 
My A would do the same thing. Turned out the mag had gotten wet and when the engine warmed the magneto it would evaporate the moisture which would condensate on the coil cover and short it out. Might be worth a look.
 
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