Is there a way to test the pump while it is off the tractor. I came across an old m i have been working on and when you poor oil in the pump it runs out pretty fast, to fast to test the pump plus there is nothing hooked up to it. i believe the shaft seal is out or the cover seal(probably both). i will remove the pump and replace the seal and gasket but i would like to have a way to know if the pump actually works before i put it back in. who knows how long it was runs dry. when i took the drain out i only got about half a quart. no way of talking to the previous owner they are deceased.
- Thread starter rocklong
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Repair the seals (unless there is obvious cracks and breakage from freezing). Then turn the shaft with oil in it and see if it comes out the output. Jim
I guess the seals r cheap I will just pull it stop the leak and look for major problems. Then put it back in and try it if it don't work I'm not out much. I was also wandering about the control lever. Should I spring forward on it own. There is no controll rod on mine just the lever. When I reinstall the lever is there a certain way it has to go in, it feels spring loaded.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
It has three positions (plus one)
All the way rearward is lift. Allowed forward about 5 inches on the rod is hold (there is a detent welded to the bottom of the rod at the hold position). Lower is forward all the way. (usually about 3 inches of rod remain out of the holder on the Steering support bracket when in the "lower") position.
When lifting (especially when lifting heavy loads) the Lower position has a resistance to being pushed forward.
With the rear left "delay" port being used the lower position has a secondary detent with a feel to it.
Jim
All the way rearward is lift. Allowed forward about 5 inches on the rod is hold (there is a detent welded to the bottom of the rod at the hold position). Lower is forward all the way. (usually about 3 inches of rod remain out of the holder on the Steering support bracket when in the "lower") position.
When lifting (especially when lifting heavy loads) the Lower position has a resistance to being pushed forward.
With the rear left "delay" port being used the lower position has a secondary detent with a feel to it.
Jim
The pump seems to work on just a cylinder with no weight. I think I am going to get a three point to move hay bales. So if I come out the right side port into a 4 way open spool double action valve then out of valve and return to drain port on tractor and hook up the cylinders I should have power up and down right. Is that the kind of valve I need.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Perfect. They do not wear out oftem unless run dry. Even a pint or so will keep them lubed enough. They only make 750 psi (maybe 850) so don't expect to move the earth. Bigger cylinders lift more with slower action. Jim
No, you need a 3 position, 4 way open center valve. It is a technicality, but I was taught you should state the number of envelopes, ways, then center (if applicable).
I think you actually want a tandem center valve because it will lock fluid in the cyls vs an open (float) center valve. It will still return Pump to Tank to unload your pump, but lock fluid in your A and B ports.
Thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated!! if u know of anyone who needs a belly pump for a farmall h there is one on ebay that just came up, I put in a small max bid of $35 dollars and it has held for two days I hope I get out bid because the h belly pump won't fit the m. I will post it on here someone will probably want it.
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