conversion kit

I have a IH 424 with points and condenser. Is it better to change this to an electronic system or stay with the original system. I am at a point where i either have to tune this tractor up or convert it. Thanks for any help.

I would go with the electronic. If the distributor cam bushing is good, they work well and reliably, The cam bushing must be good either way. Some will tell you that "if they quit you will walk" I agree. but we risk that in our cars/trucks every day. I am not walking. The points would still be in our cars/trucks if they were better. Jim

Well maybe , but then there were the people like my dad that would not keep his car tuned up . When i was still living at home after i got out of the service i got home one evening for supper and dad was not there ahead of me he always was home before me . I asked mom where dad was and she tells me she did not know as he was really late . about that time the phone rings and it is dad his car does not want to start . HE is 45 miles from the house with a dead company car. He wants to know if i am home yet and if i would come over and see if i can get it to run . Dad's car is a 68 Cheve Impala with a 283 , dad is a salesm and and racks up lots of miles . so with tools in hand i run or should say fly over to where he is at and he is setting in front of his last stop , yep car won't start so i get to checking it out no spark so pull the dist. cap look at points , what points they are GONE i mean the contacts were GONE . well lests just pull one plug while were at this the electroid is GONE along with the tab i mean GONE as he has 50000 miles on this car and never even gave it a thought about having a tune up done on it . Put in a set of p-lugs and points at the curb and he was up and running in a half hour . As mechanic in a dealership we saw this everyday . Yes cars back then needed tuned up atleast once a year or every 12-14000 miles , Hemi's needed it more often along with valve adjustments . Myself i have had no luck with the aftermarket electronic ing. but i can get by with the old points just fine as long as we can get GOOD points and this is getting harder to do .

I'm only a one-tractor guy but I converted my 1966 140 in 2006 to the Pertronix system and I'm sold. Not a hiccup in six years. I used to have to change cap and rotor every winter because they would go bad. Not anymore. No idea why.

I keep a set of points, associated parts and a small screwdriver and feeler in a plastic spice jar with some of those little silica gel sacs in the tool box under the seat. Pretty sure I can de-convert in about 10 minutes if I ever have to. But I'd still go order another Pertronix the next day.

Your competancy and mine are about equal on the ability to make it right in a hurry. My experience with electronic ignition has been secondary side caps rotors and plugs and wires. I have had coils go from burnt wires, and (because I worked on them) seen customers with burnt modules in the early systems) but recient reliability makes the use of electronic ignition the good answer to those not inclined to understand a Sunnen Distributor machins flashing strobes looking at cam angle variation, or advance curves. Just getting the spring, lead, and condenser wire under the washers without shorting to the case is a real challenge for many newbies in the posters on this site. Let alone moving the fixed point to get a good feeler gauge setting. Jim

Oh a big 10-4 on the feeler gauge feel . Been tryen for years to tech Eugene how to use a feeler gauge . Like setting the shear bar on the chopper or setting the clearance on the guards on the stupid John Deere haybine . Just tryed to teach him how to adjust the valves on the 706 , that was a lost cause. I guess i am just to old fashioned for all this new stuff .