H Oil Pan Off - How Does It Look?

dstates

Member
I took the oil pan off as I am doing my first oil change (and probably the first for the tractor in 5+ years). I think things look pretty good inside. [b:3bae1bc77f]Do you guys see anything I should be concerned with?[/b:3bae1bc77f] I'm not a big fan of the safetying job done on the journals or the caps, though...

I think tomorrow will be the valve cover...
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clean the oil pan good and like the red said make
sure the intake screen on the oil pump is clean i
use diesel in a coffee can and put it over the
intake screen and let it set over night has worked
for me
 
The "safty locks" look just fine.What dont you like
about them?You should see a DT407-they have no
locking devices(not even a lock washer) on the lower
end.
 
No not in those pictures but with sludge in the bottom of that oil pan I will bet there is sludge on the screen. The first H I bought in 1990 had over an inch deep of sludge. That screen was badly plugged.
 
As far as the safety wire goes, I've spent some time in the aviation industry and would have expected twisted safety wire in a figure eight instead of just the wires "hooked" together. The wire looks pretty stiff so maybe it is fine. Although, if one cap screw loosens it will "pull" on the other capscrew in a direction that would loosen it.

I think the washers would work fine, just the first time I've seen it done that way (I'm new to all of this). What keeps the washers from spinning with the capscrew?

[b:47a7ec3073]Can anyone tell if there has ever been work done in the engine (anything not look original)?[/b:47a7ec3073]

The oil intake screen looked pretty good. Here is a shot of the screen.
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You're technically correct on the wire thing - but - they're pretty much never going to turn too far with any wire in there, so I think that's perfectly fine.

Those washer's on the connecting rods though - I have seen it before, but I still don't think they're really serving any purpose.

Typically if you're going to bend a side up like that, there has to be some other way to keep the washer itself from turning. It's usually done with square stock, bent up against the bolt head - the square part catching somewhere to keep it from turning.

You could argue there's more surface area with the washer I guess... but - I might also worry about how it affects the torque value when installing, if it's not orinially supposed to be there.
 
That curved tubes comes off the oil pump real easy. Carefully unbend a couple of the tabs so you can take the cover off to clean the entire screen. Looks like I can see some crud in there.
 
like said, the rod cap 'washers' would have been better with
square sides. so they can't turn.
mains wire is better than nothing

up to you, but when I routinely pull the pan on a new to me tractor
to take a look,
I pull a rod and main cap to look at the bearings.
If ok, I write the size down somewhere for the future.
Then they can be on the shelf if I want to roll in new ones.
On Farmalls, it only takes a few minutes to
drop the cover off the oil pump, plane if necessary,
and put in a new gasket and spring. cheap insurance
 
We twisted that wire by hand. The Air Force mechanics had a tool for doing the twisting. It would do it a lot faster we could ever do it. Hal
a75331.jpg
 
Safety wire not done very well, but that is how IH
always did the rod locks on those tractors when they
were new up through 450's etc. The bolts on later
tractors use a head that is notched and locks when
tightened or the type that the shank stretch's and
locks the bolt, therefore no extra locking plates,
wires or cotter keys.
 
When I replaced the main and rod bearings in my Indy M 10 years ago, the safety wires were missing. I checked the torque before unbolting. They were fine. Those little tabs to bend on the bolt sides should be more than enough.
 
The safety wire job is probably fine, but if I had the pan off, I would at least put a positive twisted safety on like El Toro"s diagrams. (I work on helicopters for a living so it"s second nature.)
 

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