Special socket used for turning engine over by hand

Dave Branz

New User
Looking for a special socket to turn over my 1964 IH 504 tractor's engine during valve adjustments. I don't have a starter hand crank and have limited space in front due to attached loader. Thinking of making socket if I had the dimension of the business end of a starter hand crank.
 
(quoted from post at 12:36:52 12/30/11) Can you adjust them with the engine at an idle?
It would go easier to have one person doing the adjusting and you using the feeler gauge. Hal

The last time I adjusted the valve gap while the engine was idling resulted in a very beat up and wrecked feeler gauge that was totally useless for anything after that.
 
Can you adjust them with the engine at an idle?
It would go easier to have one person doing the adjusting and you using the feeler gauge. Hal
 
Lift one tire, put it in high gear. With the plugs out it will spin easily by rotating the tire forward. Jim
 
Thanks for the inputs; only very quick people try it with the engine running. I just remove the coil wire and spark plugs then press start hoping to get at the right spot for each set.
 
I would not adjust the valve lash on that engine with it running, but, that is the way IH motor trucks always said to set them back in the days. The only time I ever had a feeler gauge chewed up was on an old chevy 235 power glide with hydraulic lifters. I had the bright idea (was young then) that if I just gave them valves a little bit of clearance beyond the maximum range of the hydraulic lifter that engine would quit burning valves. Well, that camshaft for the hyd lifter was pretty nasty about closing the valves apparently and just chewed up the gauge. Needless to say, that experiment did not work. Later on, found out the valve seats were all poorly fitted (loose) in head that had been worked over by a local machine shop. We found a different head and no more valve problems. Actually, setting valves with engine running gives you the reading off the true heel of the camshaft lobe. A lot of lobes have the ramp starting a considerable degree from the very heel of cam so when you have piston tdc comp stroke you are part way up the ramp. That is why I never use the simplified method of adjusting on several cylinders at only two positions of crankshaft. You can run into some measurable differences in clearance on different cylinders that way. Not much, but it can happen.
 
I do not know what size you are seeking, but NAPA has 3/4 drive sockets up to 3 1/2 inches - maybe some larger.
 
i will not agree with your method el tora you are having a piped dream on subject in question sorry not agreeable
 
You can indeed set vlaves with an engine at idle.

1. initial cold set.

2. put valve cover on and run eninge up to op temp

3. remove valve cover

4. start and adjust valves

Most of the time when helping someone out I do it by the book. If it says turn over by hand I do.

When I'm working on my stuff......

Rick
 
The only reason a feeler gauge would get "damaged" is if the rocker arm surface and the valve stem end were "cupped" due to lots of wear. IF your rocker arm and valve mating surfaces are re-ground to original condition, you can indeed adjust the clearance while running. I have done this many times over the 50+ years of rebuilding engines.
There are many ways to rotate an engine while setting the valves; use the suggestions of the others who have written in this post.
 
you sir are out of line, if you would like to do it precise and the best method the info supplied by pete23 is the proper and right way to do itrunning methods are in accurate im sorry and slopply done running methods on solid lifters. i do use the running method on automotive hydraulic lifters and on jacobs engine brakes on cummins engines from yester year
 
I've probably been doing this longer than you. I even have a set of clips for the rocker arms to stop oil loss. Hal
 
When you adjusted valves on a 235 Chevy engine with hydraulic lifters you backed off the adjustment until the lifter started tapping or clicking then you turned the adjustment 1-1/2 turns. No feeler gauge used. When the V8's came out you only turned the adjustment 3/4 turn when the lifter started clicking. Hal
PS: I had a 1951 Chevy with the 216 engine and I used a feeler gauge while a helper made the adjustment with the engine at an idle.
 

The easiest way I have found is to watch the valves in action, and stop when they are in a position that guarantees the position of the valve you are adjusting.
The valves are either intake or exhaust. Use this on one cylinder at a time, it works on any 4 stroke engine of any number of cylinders. I put a shop rag over the adjacent cylinder's valves to assure I am looking only at the cylinder I am adjusting.
Starting with #1 cylinder
Rotate the engine until the exhaust valve –just- starts moving, then adjust the intake on that cylinder.
Rotate the engine until the intake valve just stops moving and then adjust the exhaust.
These two positions are located such that the cam is not pushing on the valves as you adjust it to spec.
Do one cylinder at a time, and look at the intake and exhaust manifolds to assure it is an intake or exhaust. They are E-II-EE-II-EE-II-E From front to back Jim
 
I fully realize how to adjust the old chev, what I was saying is what I tried and it didn't work.The turn and a half was to get the lifter in approx the middle of it's available movement. The rockers and valve tips were not in bad shape. It chewed my feeler gauge for two reasons. I was using a very thin gauge and the cams for hydraulic lifter were very abrupt. I set the old 216 running with no problem, solid lifters, different cam. I set a ton of engines running because that is the way we did them in the 50's. Have a special wrench that I still have today.
 
Can you reach the hex with a pair of dividers? That should get you close to the size of socket you need. Once you get No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and counting from the fan end of your engine you can now adjust valves 1,2,3 & 5. Then rotate your engine one full turn and adjust valves 4,6,7 & 8.

You can return the socket if it's too big or too small and get one that does fit. Once you feel compression drop a long plastic straw on top of the piston and you watch the straw rise as a helper hand cranks the engine slowly. Both valves on No1 cylinder should be closed when the piston is at TDC. Hal
 
Thank you all for your comments; Can anyone tell me the diminsions for the starter hand crank end which fits into fan drive pulley? Looking to make one using a socket, drilling thru it and installing a drive pin or #8 harden bolt
 
It may be easier to make something to fit your pto shaft. Remove the sparkplugs if its the gas version. You need the transmission in neutral and brakes set. Then engage the pto. Use a 3/4 ratchet to get some leverage. Hal
 

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