Cub cyl. Head

BenB · Dec 23, 2011

Does anyone have an illustration of the proper torque sequence for putting a cylinder head back on a farmall cub. Mine is a 48no model if that makes any difference. Thanks!

Janicholson · Dec 23, 2011

If the head is like a QWERTY keyboard, the sequence would be Y-B-U-V-T-N-I-C continue that pattern to the ends. Start with 10 ft./#, then go to 25, then 50, on up to the correct torque. Run the engine to operating temp, then let cool and retorque. If the bolts seem to not want to tighten any farther than they were, I loosen each one (one at a time) till the wernch just turns the nut a tiny bit looser, then tighten. If they tighten at first, just do that. My process breaks the static friction and allows a trew torquing of each. Do not loosen them more than just a tiny turn of bolt, and only one at a time. Jim

CraigChristian · Dec 23, 2011

If the bolts were the originals, I"d replace them as well. If you just use Gr 8 boltas, you"ll need to shorten several of them so they don"t protrude into the water jacket. Also, use sealant on them so you won"t have coolant leakage after you"re done !! Craig

Denny ('60 Lo-Boy) · Dec 23, 2011

See bottom of the page.

BenB · Dec 23, 2011

Thanks Guys. Hopefully tomorrow morning or next week I can get this done. Those are some pretty useful ideas to help get things dont right!

Cub cyl. Head

BenB

Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

CraigChristian

Member

Denny ('60 Lo-Boy)

Member

BenB

Member

Similar threads