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Super C Cam Gear installation

B

brumik

Member
I put new Cam Gear on, but can't get it on all the way.
There's too much back slop on the shaft, and as I'm rubber hammering the gear on, it bottoms out on the engine face with about 3/8" to go yet. The shaft floats back as I'm hitting the gear. I have heated the gear for easier fit.
So, either i pull the Cam Shaft, which I'm not sure how.
Or, what if i welded a bolt on the end of shaft and simply screwed down with a plate and squeezed the gear back on.
Will welding on the shaft cause cracks?
Or - is there another trick to do this?
Bruce
 
Definitely do NOT weld the cam shaft unless you want to purchase a replacement shortly afterward. It will cause heat stresses. Not sure about the amount of float in the shaft, but it does not sound usual to me. Generally cam gears just slide on without too much trouble. Check for any burring on the cam shaft and on the inside of the gear wheel. These must be absolutely clean. The slightest burr can cause the gear to jam. If it is an interference fit, then you will have to heat the entire gear to fit it. Hot oil works well, but be careful not to start a fire.
 
Mike the gear and shaft get the cam journalnice and clean the dimensions of both gear and cam will need to be such so it will press on easy. You can remove the cam and then press the gear on. Driving it on will just remove the frost plug in the back of the engine if you havent already done that.
 
Oh Oh, is there any way to tell if i knocked the plug out? If knocked out, we're talking engine removal to put back?
Doesn't it sound unusual that the shaft slides in and out about 3/8" ?

I did clean the Shaft and gear - no knicks.
it goes on nice with very slightest press fit, but the shaft slides to easy and gets to the point where the gear bottoms out before it's on all the way.
i really don't know what to do now.
 
Yes, it is interface fit.
i have heated the gear to about 200+ degrees.
it goes on fairly nice, but the shaft moves back far enough where it bottoms out before it's all the way on. The shaft and gear are very clean, no burrs at all.
And, as Gene mentioned, i hope i didn't knock the plug out.
I'm stuck on this one.
 
I think you should pull the cam and have the camgear pressed on by a shop with a hydraulic press. Hal
 
Pull the cover off under the flywheel. If you find the cam plug, pull the engine. Take off the rocker arms and push rods. Take off the pan & with the engine upside down, the lifters should clear the cam as you remove it. Then press the gear on.
 
Do you have a manual? If not I would suggest getting one. Have you ever pulled an engine from the tractor before? If not, I can tell you from my experience it's a little work but not that hard. Look for advice from the fellows on here, safety attention must be paid to the way you jack the tractor, have it blocked etc, again just ask or read the archives. I can't remember how I put the cam back in on mine, but I believe the gear was already installed, and it might have been installed at the shop that ground my crank. Hammering on anything while installed on the engine is 'in my opinion' not the best way.

my 2 cents
 
I just put one on yesterday, but I already had the front of the tractor apart, so I took the engine out, flywheel off, plug out from back of cam, bolted engine stand apt. to back of block and shimed a socket between it and back of cam to hold it all the way forward, bake the gear at 400 for about an hour,lol then it went on with just alittle tapping, I was afraid without holding back of cam I may screw something up, I know the cam runs the oil pump also so you maybe beating against it, like other said you proberly need to check first to see if you have knocked the plug out, if not I would take the cam out, the oil pump have to come out also, if the plug is out you have to remove engine and you may get by without taking the cam out, if you can shim between the back of the cam and flywheel while you put the gear on, if you havent damage anything yet, and if you need a plug its 1 5/8 inch, anyway good luck. Mike
 
I would suggest you get a good manual and get someone you know that's a mechanic to help you.
Once you have the camshaft out of the engine you should be able to look through that space with a good light and see if you've shoved out the freeze plug. I wouldn't pull the engine until you check that. Here's the procedure for aligning the punch marks once you have the new cam gear installed. Hal
a36672.jpg
 
You would need to drain the engine oil, remove pan & the oil pump, remove the rocker arms & push rods. Push the tappets into their bores and then you should be able to pull the camshaft. Take some pictures and make a lot of notes as they will come in handy during the installation
of the cam once the gear is pressed on. Note how the punch marks are aligned in the pic I posted. Shine a flashlight in that hole once the cam is out to see if the plug is missing. Hal
 
Thanks for your advice.
i've actually already have oil pan off. So next is the pump and other gadgets. I'll mess around a little tonight and see how it goes.
 
OH - i guess, play it safe and pull the engine.
Went from fairly simple project - i thought ---- then turned major.
 
See if you can block off the lower outlet on your engine and fill the engine w/water then see if any water is leaking around the bell housing. If any water is leaking then you know the engine needs to be pulled. You need to support that tractor from tilting backwards when you remove the engine. You need to use a suitable crane or hoist & slings to handle the weight of that engine. Be careful. Hal
 
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