farmall 656 motor issues

did a compression test results are 1- 160, 2- 145, 3- 150, 4- 150, 5- 170, 6- 160 is this good or bad? i kinda thought that they were really far apart and should be more consistant but i don"t know. going to get new plugs and stuff and also some carb cleaner since i took it off. i then drained the oil. it didn"t seem milky but it did seem really runny or not very thick. possibly watery? thanks

I think thats pretty good compresion up and down a little but you dont have any below 100. Is the tractor burning really rich by chance. Like does it always smoke black like its getting to much gas? Thats what mine was doing and it would fouwl up the plugs in no time. The only way i could fix mine is to remove the electric seliniod valve on the bottom of the carb and replace it with an adjustible jet. After changing the plugs agian it ran great.

If the oil is warm or close to hot, it will be very "runny".

Good job following directions. The 145 is low but not to be considered out of bounds for an engine not running well. I give the compression at this point a B grade. If the oil seemed thin, it is probably multi viscosity oil like 10-30. That oil stays thin at cool temps. If there was no coolant in the bottom of the pan when the plug was opened, I think the internals and gaskets are good enough to get it running correctly before replacing the head gasket, or going further into the interior of the engine.
I ask you to consider leaving it together enough to start and run until the engine is stable and running cleanly. The compression indicates it can do that.
A single place that can cause dramatic issues with spark timing and running condition is the distributor shaft bushing. If it is worn, the distributor 6 lobe cam will be wobbly and fail to open the points correctly. The test is to see if it will wiggle by hand at all.
Take off the distributor cap and rotor.
With good light on the rotor shaft, look at the point rubbing block and cam.
Wiggle the cam toward the rubbing block and away from it. Also up and down, and toward the block and away from the block (not in and out). Any play in these directions at all is not allowed, and requires a rebuilt distributor. A dial indicator placed on the shaft perpendicular to the shaft should not show more than .001" of movement as the cam is wiggled.
Keep doing tests, we are saving you money and giving you context specific education at the same time. Jim

put new plugs wires dist. cap and the thing inside on along with cleaning the carb (sprayed in all places i could) and now it won't start everything seems to be the way it was any ideas? thanks

Andy
Did you gap the plugs ? What did you set point gap at ? Make sure you wires all go to the right plug , use firing order as your guide .

There is a good rule: If it was running poorly, do not replace multiple items. Just get it diagnosed and then when it is clear what the issue is, and it is resolved, which is a repair and could include things that a normal tuneup would include, but might not. The Firing order is important (side of block). The first place to start is to determine if the points are actually working as they should.
With the key on, and the tractor stopped (not cranking) there should be voltage at the coil where it connects to the wire from the key. (or resistor if it has one) If the points (under the distributor cap) are open, there will be almost the same voltage on both sides of the coil. (small terminals) if the points are closed, there will be no voltage on the distributor side of the coil. (that is good) Shut off the key (max time on without running 3 minutes)
Look at those points, move the engine by hand (Fan belt and fan)till the distributor cam is opening the points all the way (be careful and do it with precision) the gap should be .020". Clean the points with a lent free paper (folded dollar bill is good). With the coil wire grounded to the block, and with the key on, use a screw driver to touch across the two contacts of the points when they are open. If a small spark is present, they are probably getting correct voltage.
Put the cap back on and try to start it.

Please do not give up, this is not easy. My son is 18 and he completely replaced and made operational a 1988 CRX Honda (he now has great respect for His new car. Today we removed the transmission from a Subaru Outback to replace a rear main. He is learning, and is becoming self sufficient. You will as well. Jim

how do you gap the points?

Andy, I'll let Jim walk you through this process as he is very good at explaining these things and has shown considerable interest in your thread. I just wanted to offer you some encourgement as you are on the verge of learing a lot on how to maintain these old tractors. You just can't find someone to make "house calls" for this everyday trouble shooting stuff and if you just keep working through this you will be involved with responses to this type of thread before you know it. I wish you luck and the preserverence to see this through to it's eventful resolution, Hal.

Point gap is set as I indicated below. Turn the engine by hand slowly until one of the six bumps on the distributor cam is pushing the points open as far as it can. (little fiber rubbing block on the tip of the cam lobe. Nor use a .020" feeler gauge. (they come in a set that has thin blades from .001" or so to about .030" or so. (a few buchks, but needed))the gap of the points is correct when the blade slides between the contact surfaces touching both, but not forcing them open any. (it is a feel thing, and the blade must be parallel to the surfaces of the point contacts.)
If it is perfect as is (doubtful) leave it alone. If it is narrow or wide, the stationary backing plate of the points must be loosened enough to move, and the plate adjusted to .20" gap. Not difficult, but touchy. Retighten and check gap again. There is one other test to do while the cap is off. Put the rotor on the shaft, and turn it by hand gently in the direction of rotation (CW) it should turn a few degrees and stop. When released, it should spring back to its former location. This tests the distributor centrifugal advance for operation, (not perfection, but that it works at all.) If it does not turn, or does not return (do not break the rotor, it is not hard to turn) the distributor needs to be rebuilt. It is beyoun you at this point. Good luck jim. Keep asking questions.

Andy , just what I thought .You changed the points and did not gap them , Did you gap the plugs ?( At your age I would have done the same thing ) It is important to gap those also. I am so glad to see a young guy tinker on these old girls .Keep asking questions here !!!! We will all be glad to help you learn !!!
You have Janicholson and farmallhal working with you ! These guys are GOOD !!!

so to gap the points on the flat spot of that 6 sided shaft inside the distributor on the flat sides there should be no gap and when on corners there should be .020'' correct.

also how do you roll the engine over by hand?

4 ways to turn the engine.
The hand crank (if you have one, and the drive snout is free to turn, some are frozen).
Push in on the main fan belt and turn on the blades of the fan.
Putting it in 5th Direct, and rocking the rear tires forward.
Lifting one back tire and turning forward on that.
Jim

Andy--I own and have for years a 460(221) and a 656(263). One of the first things you need to do is check the spark. Take an extra spark plug. Most any large plug will do. Take off the number 1 plug wire or other and plug the wire into the loose plug. Ground the plug to the the side of the motor and get someone to spin the motor with the starter just like you were cranking it. Use some rubber handle wire pliers or similar to hold plug wire near spark plug boot and make sure you are grounded to the block. Try it on more than one location to make sure of the ground. When cranking the motor over you should be able to see a redish blue spark flashing at the spark plug tip. If no spark, start with the point settings again(It can be trickey to a beginner) Then the distributor. You must have a spark to produce fire to the cylinders. If you have a good spark, then chances are it is not a firing problem.
JW