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IH 350 Need Help and INFO (Pics)

P

Plane Bart

Member
Need Help Grandpa needs his ole tractor running again.
Here is what I found IH 350
First what is the best repair manual for this tractor.
things I am sure I will need
Part numbers for points, condensor, distributor cap, spark plugs,oil filter.
how many fuel filters are there and where.
is this a 12 volt Positive ground system a wiring Diagram would be great is somone has one
DO I have the correct SE# 361552R found on right side of enggine left of firing order
I have more pictures if needed
also need to know what carb this is and a rebuild kit part number I need.
Thanks for any answers it is all appreciated.
a18645.jpg

a18646.jpg

a18647.jpg
 
Best manuals are at www.external_link. While waiting on a parts manual, you can find part #'s on www.caseih.com. Engine rebuild kits are available from many sources. This site, also www.batescorp.com. etc. You don't have a fuel filter, unless someone has added one. There is a sediment bowl under the gas tank. Tractor was originally 6 volt positive ground. If someone put an alternator on it, it is 12V neg ground. If a 12V generator has been added it can be either. Wiring diagram is in the operators manual. Serial # is on a tag on the left side of the clutch housing. The number you gave is a prt number off the casting you copied it from. Pictures aren't needed unless you have difficulty explaining some problem.
 
Thats the correct casting # for a 350 utility block. The tractor serial number is stamped in a small plate with 4 rivets mounting it to the right side of clutch housing. Found toward the rear of tractor from the engine oil filter ( not very far) and kind of under the hydraulic tubes.
350 tractors could be 6 or 12 volt positive ground originaly. If it has a battery with it whatever size it is may be what voltage you have.
You need a rebuild kit to fit a 361525R92 carburetor. You can find carburetor and distributor parts for a IH distributor on this site and others or from a dealer.
 
Would anyone have a Picture of the SE# location?
I thought I had it when I found the hand stamped numbers but did not have my SE# book with me.
the battery that was on it was a 12V ( I am sure this is something Grandpa Jones just stuck in there)fit in space but was hooked up positive to insulated cable to starter seloniod and flat braided cable to negitive looked wrong to me figured I would ask first before shorting out the allready bad looking wiring.
I did not see an alternator on the tractor but it did have
so there are no fuel (filter screens) on the sediment bowl or at the carb elbow.
What do I look this up as a model I-350???
 
If the serial tag is there it is obvious as a riveted tag on the right side of the clutch housing (as stated below earlier models had them on the left side). It could be missing. 350's were built in 56(B), 57(C) and 58(D). The letters are the IH designation of the year the part was cast in the form of 1 8 D, Jan 8, 1958, etc. They will be on all major and some minor castings. Assembly dates might be the same month or a few months later. Reversing the battery cables (if no altenator) won't do anything but possibly shorten the life of the voltage regulator, no shorts or smoke. If the lights weren't changed to 12 volts, you need new sealed beams. Unless you find one put on by someone else, there are no fuel filters, the sediment bowl and enclosed screen is the filter. Your last question, if you mean www.caseih.com, just put 350 in the search box, it will list Farmall and International 350's, you can take it from there. My preference for the carb is an IH kit. Others may disagree, but some aftermarket (not necessarily all) kits are less than desireable.
 
Thank You CKNS I found lots of tags with four rivets and 3 to 4 numbers in them LOL
my un-educated guess is this is a I-350 Utility model thought I would be smart and compare it to the sheet metal on the parts side No joy found there this IH is not like the "N" series tractors
as far as restoring it Mr. Jones likes all of his stuff rusty and greasey he just wants it to run because he has several pieces of equipment for it.
a18652.jpg
 
Unless you, (Grandpa) like spending money, I would not buy all those new parts. In fact, you could probably get it running nicely by simply cleaning out the old fuel, filing the points a bit, and installing a new battery.

Install new parts after you know for sure what it NEEDS.


Glenn F.
 
A great old tractor! I have one! If you look at the top picture in your post, there are three holes in a flat area to the rear of the oil filter dome, and in front of the steering arm. If you go to the other side of the tractor and find the same three holes, you will be able to find the serial plate just above the flat area. If it is greasy, just clean.
From looking at the plugs, (assuming the engine is not stuck) I would replace them.
I would also make sure there was oil in the crankcase (small valve looking "petcocks" on the side of the oil pan) if oil comes out of the top one it is full, if it does not come out the bottom one it needs oil.
I would also make sure the oil was not contaminated with coolant before trying to start it. Loosen the drain plug (with a catch pan under it)and see what comes out just as you get it loose enough to leak. If oil that is good.
Do not replace all the parts until it runs, Replacement just makes diagnosis difficult.
clean out the fuel lines, and make sure there is a nice flow to the carb. Also ask what was wrong with it when it was parked!! Jim
 
The 2 6 B on the bottom means the part was cast on Feb 6 1956. If original you have a 1956 model. There should be only one tag, the serial tag on the right side of the clutch housing, with 4 rivets, in fact only one riveted tag anywhere, except possibly on the carburetor.
 
On my 350 Utility, the serial number plate is on the right side rather than the left. In the first picture, it would be on the clutch housing just above the flat area, just to the rear of the engine, between the sediment bowl and oil filter dome, and (in this view) obscured by the steel hydraulic lines. As Jim indicated, it could be on the left side -- and it could be covered with grease/dirt wherever it is. If you don't find the plate in either location (Jim's or mine), try cleaning the areas with some lacquer thinner and I'll bet you'll find evidence of four rivet holes that would once have secured the tag. If you can find those holes, at least you'll know you've found the right spot.

Please let us know how it goes.

Mark W. in MI
 
Look closely and you can barely see the serial tag in the first picture. Other riveted tags will be on the starter and the generator. if they are still in original condition.
 
when he parked it two years ago the battery died and it would not start, then the battery was removed he brought home a 12V from a yard sale this summer and tried to start it but he was not sure if it was a 12volt or a 6 volt does not know if it is a positve ground or not.
when I drove up there I took a look at the points and cap both are pitted. has oil and antifreeze did not check for water in oil yet.
did not want to fry the condesor or points by hooking up the battery wrong.
I want new ignition parts to try to get it to work. the carb is real bad hose has beeen left off full of spider webs most likely dry as a bone
I wont be able to get back up there for a couple of weeks so if you could let me know any part numbers for the basics so I can take them with me It would be greatly appreciated
PS do you recomend the IH-10 repair manual
 
The tractor was originally 6v positive ground
(opposite of all new vehicles and tractors)
The coil and points will not be hurt if used for a few minutes on 12 volts, if it were mine, I would use a 6volt battery to try it out. Put heavy battery cables on it 00gauge welding cables, or truck cables, and it will turn with 6v.
The generator is likely to be 6v as well. Thus it will be fine to go the 6v route.
The starter will be 6v they are not changed, just run on 12v with no problems. So it is already OK.
The carb and fuel are the most likely to be issues. Carb cleaner at least, and a akit with a soaking bucket is best. Compressed air to blow out passages is also important.
Just use a tab of 340 grit paper on the points to buff them, do not replace everything, it is a disaster to trouble shoot all parts at once.
It will go easily if it is able to turn over. Jim
 
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