Hello, I recently rewired a '53 Super A and have some problems. The tractor starts great and shuts off when the ignition switch is pressed to "off" but it will also crank if the ignition switch is "off". Also, there is a small attached box screwed on the alternator which heats up even if the tractor is off. As long as the battery is attached, the box (which I assume is an extenal regulator of some sort) gets very hot. It is labeled "Transpo" and what I believe says "07...." with the final numbers obscured and has 5 wires , 2 in a connector going to the#1 and #2 terminals on the alternator, 1 going to the BAT terminal, 1 going to the ground screw on the alternator and 1 unconnected with a connector. I have a wire from the BAT terminal to the AMMETER only since the small box is currently using the #1 and #2 terminals. Other than that I have the rest of the tractor wired the same as the "step by step 12volt conversion" diagram found on Yesterday's Tractor article #195. Thanks for your help.
- Thread starter aquanosis
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Janicholson
Well-known Member
Most older era tractors will crank with the ignition off. Normal. (the following assumes it is a 10SI Delco alternator)
The Transpo 07 box is probably a conversion to (what someone thinks) is a one wire system.
Scrap the box.
Attach the #2 spade terminal on the alternator to the big terminal on the alternator (short 12ga wire). Attach that same big terminal to the load side of the amp meter with 10 gauge wire (It may be already). Attach the #1 spade terminal of the alternator to the banded end of a 3 amp 100piv diode (radio shack)attach the other end of the diode to the ignition switch terminal that goes to the coil. That is it, it will work.
If it has a magneto, (or if you want to) you can put a momentary contact single pole Switch in place of the diode. Then when it starts you can push the button to energize the alternator, and release it. It will continue to charge from then on. An oil pressure switch can be used (closed on pressure -NAPA item) to do the same thing automatically. JimN
The Transpo 07 box is probably a conversion to (what someone thinks) is a one wire system.
Scrap the box.
Attach the #2 spade terminal on the alternator to the big terminal on the alternator (short 12ga wire). Attach that same big terminal to the load side of the amp meter with 10 gauge wire (It may be already). Attach the #1 spade terminal of the alternator to the banded end of a 3 amp 100piv diode (radio shack)attach the other end of the diode to the ignition switch terminal that goes to the coil. That is it, it will work.
If it has a magneto, (or if you want to) you can put a momentary contact single pole Switch in place of the diode. Then when it starts you can push the button to energize the alternator, and release it. It will continue to charge from then on. An oil pressure switch can be used (closed on pressure -NAPA item) to do the same thing automatically. JimN
Thanks for the info. When I attach the diode to the ignition switch and the #1 terminal on the alternator, what size wire should I use to connect the gap? does it matter where the diode is in the line (at the switch end or alternator end...somewhere in between). Can I use the wire (already there) that was to be used on the voltage regulator of the original 6 volt? Thanks
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The wire is not load carrying, a 14 gauge will do fine, the diode can be any where, but the location should be easy to get at, and noted in the owners manual/documents. A shrink tube seals the diode easily. Using an unused wire is fine. Just make sure it is free from connections before reconnecting it for the exciter wire. JimN
Thanks for the pictures. Mine looks like the one on the upper left. I guess I didn't realize the difference till I saw the pictures. What is the difference between the two? Will this change the wiring recommendations? Also, if I still need the diode, will this one work?
DIODE, SILICON CONTROLLED RECTIFIER (SCR), 1N5401, 3 AMPS, 100 VOLTS, DO-201AD Rectifiers
Couldn't get one at Radio Shack (only had 3A 50PIV or 3A 200PIV) so I'd have to order.
DIODE, SILICON CONTROLLED RECTIFIER (SCR), 1N5401, 3 AMPS, 100 VOLTS, DO-201AD Rectifiers
Couldn't get one at Radio Shack (only had 3A 50PIV or 3A 200PIV) so I'd have to order.
Janicholson said, "assumes it is 10-SI" and it is not. It is a 10SD. So negate those recommendations for your 10SD. Not Janicholson's fault, he didn't know that you had a 10SD.
Difference, among other details, is that 10-SI has internal regulator and the 10SD has external regulator (the box you removed).
If you want to use the Transpo regulator box, I'll have to do some searching. If you want to go to local auto supply and buy the GM regulator that was used with the 10SD, then I can send you the diagram for wiring up that combination.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Your alternator is not an internal regulator alternator. It is from an earlier GM car. It requires an external regulator. The model number and AMPs rating will be necessary to get the correct VR for it. (it might be reasonable to just get a 10SI, auto salvage at 30.00, or rebuilt for 60. With regulator included and the info below.) TO wire up the external VR you will need a diagram from the type of car it was from.
A Hitachi alternator from a Mid 80s Nissan PU will be smaller (cheap) and the S terminal is the same as #2 below, and the I terminal is Equal to the #1 on a 10SI good luck, JimN
A Hitachi alternator from a Mid 80s Nissan PU will be smaller (cheap) and the S terminal is the same as #2 below, and the I terminal is Equal to the #1 on a 10SI good luck, JimN
I'd like to use what I have if it still works though I'm concerned by the Transpo getting hot when the tractor is off. Please send me the wiring diagram you have for the 10SD. Maybe a wiring problem is causing the overheating of the Transpo? Since there is no visable model or info on the alternator, what VR would I ask for? Just a 10SD VR? Would it be advisable to scrap the 10SD and just go get a 10SI or can I make what I have work? Thanks guys!
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The box should not get hot when the tractor is off. There should be no current draw that would begin to make heat. It is not a wiring issue (to me) it is a bad one wire external regulator substitute. If it charges when running, the alt is good. Take up JMOR on the diagram. The regulator you buy needs to fit the connector and should be easy to find if you take the alt with you to the store, and talk to a person that has experience!! JimN
It is easier to wire up the 10-SI (fewer parts & fewer wires). Most so-called auto parts counter people these day, with their computer just give you that deer in the head-lights stare unless you give them make, model, year, engine size, etc., so best wishes in asking for a VR for a 10SD! Just ask for one for a 1966 Chevy Impala, 396 V8.
Here is a composite with a picture of alternator shown to help identify the BATT, Field, and Ground connection points and all the un-necessary stuff scratched out. But you will be less stressed to go with the 10-SI.
And to further complicate matters, if you buy a Solid State reg instead of the older mechanical REG, then you need to add additional wiring:
Janicholson
Well-known Member
You are welcome. Jim
charles todd
Well-known Member
A DELCO "one-wire" is the easiest. Some will say they are no good. I have them on all my equipment and my fathers equipment. The only thing is you have to rev the motor to excite the alternator. They are $50 at NAPA. Just run one 8-10 ga wire to the battery and done.
CT
CT
I decided to replace my 10SD with a 10SI for ease and availability. It was only $49 at NAPA though they will no longer take an 10SD core. I'm still a bit confused about the diode that should be hooked to the #1 terminal. I couldn't get the 3A /100PIV diode suggested by Janicholson at Radio Shack because they only carry 3A / 50PIV , 3A / 200PIV or 3A / 400PIV diodes. I decided to order this one from Jameco: DIODE, SILICON CONTROLLED RECTIFIER (SCR), 1N5401, 3 AMPS, 100 VOLTS, DO-201AD Rectifiers. I'm not sure if this is correct since it's a rectifier diode. I've also seen on article 195 to use a 10ohm 2watt resistor. Should I use one of the other Radioshack diodes, use the rectifier diode I got from Jameco or get a resistor from somewhere else and what part number and where. I'm sure this is much less complicated than I'm making it. Thanks
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