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1586 questions

M

Moline_guy

Well-known Member
Bought this 1586 last month and today was the first time i was using the 3pt and hydraulics at the same time. When i had the 3pt lever all the way ahead (3pt down) the hydraulic outlets dont work. Is this suppose to be or do i have problems. As soon as you move the 3pt lever back a bit everything works.

One other thing, when i change out the rear end oil do all the plugs need to be removed or can just the center one under the drawbar and the one under the speed trans drain it out. I noticed there are two plugs under the bull gears, should these two be removed to drain?

Thanks for any help.
plainsman1486.jpg
 
When you put 3 pt positon control lever all the way down you are into the action control portion of the hitch valve and it dumps oil, you should only move lever to the ofset in quadrant for hitch all the way down. It may be that adjustments are incorrect so, but at any rate, don't put lever any farther than where hitch is lowered all the way. That action control portion of the control is to be used when using the draft control on in ground implements such as moldboard plow to adjust how quickly hitch reacts to change in draft load. In other words, how fast it jumps up and down. After all, draft control is no more than sensing the load on hitch and eiether raising or lowering hitch to maintain a constant load. Works good on very uneven ground to maintain even depth of a plow for instance but on level land , hard pull it is not the way to go.
 
Thanks for the information, i was hooking up the planter in the transport position to the 3pt hitch and when i went to raise the planter wheels off the hydraulic valves it wouldnt lift, after i lifted the 3pt i had my hydraulics back. I will watch it, and not lower it past that notch, i dont do any tillage with the 3pt so i dont need to mess with the draft settings, thanks for the information.
 
The two plugs under the finals need to be removed to. The finals get their oil from the main case but the holes from the case into the finals are a few inches from the bottom so a couple quarts stay in the finals. I think this is to trap any scrap metal if the finals grenade.
 
MN Scott, thanks for the information, are the finals on the 1586 reliable, after i got this tractor someone told me that the 15's had a lot of rear end trouble. I figured being it had the planataries it would be a more reliable machine, with less rear end trouble than the smaller models?
 
moline guy: I don't think this changes your question or the answer very much, however if my memory serves me correctly 1566 and 1586 have inboard planetaries rather than bull gears.

I remember driving one of those at an IH demonstration day back around 1976. At the time I had a new 1066 of my own at home and noticed the difference in rear chassis. I'm quite certain the IH folks on hand told me those were planetaries.
 
The final drive has many more parts than the smaller tractors due to the fact they use a drop gear set up from the differential to the planetery. We had a lot of problems with the ball bearings on the drop gear and changed them to bower flat roller. Overall much less problems with ring gear and pinion though as they run at higher speed so carry less torque on them. I would say, less problems but a lot more labor intensive and costly if you do have trouble.
 
Pete: When that started happening, it was time to put two drive axles under a tractor. My biggest mistake, a two wheel drive tractor over 100 hp. I had an articulated machine, a John Deere 540A forestry skidder, 15 hp less than a 1066. It handled my disk or cultivator just as well as 1066, and the operational costs were less. I don't give the credit to Deere, articulation is the answer. In my books every tractor over 100 hp should be hinged in the middle.
 
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