Farmall M won't run

I have a '47 Farmall M that will start and then seems to be running out of gass. I have gone thru the carb and gas line and drained the tank as well as removed and cleaned the fuel filter.
I am now going to investigate the distributer to see if maybe one of the advance springs is broken. Of course I'm doing this outside in the snow. Does anyone have am idea what the problem could be/ This is my snow removal tractor and my wife is tired of shoveling the driveway.

There are three ingredients to operation. The first is fuel and second is air, third is spark. If it starts it is getting spark (initially) if it starts it is getting fuel and air, So really one of these itams is leaving. immediatly after starting. There should be a fuel shutoff and glass sediment bowl under the tank. There should be a fuel strainer screen in the inlet fitting to the carb (is it clean). There should be no other filter. If there is, remove it, and put a piece of rubber hose in its place (should be steel lines there for safety)
Does the ignition stop working when it quits? Pull the coil wire, or mag high voltage lead and hold it about 3/16 or 1/4 inch from the block and have someone crank it (be safe, block wheels, and set brakes). No spark, needs to be diagnosed further, Possible condenser, or Coil fault. JimN

Make sure the float level in the carb is set correctly and the needle is not sticking. Make sure all the carb adjustments are correct. Make sure there are no air leaks where the carb mounts to the manifold. If it has a in-line fuel filter, get rid of the filter.

there is actually four jim, but who"s counting.
Air, fuel, compression and spark.

Have you used a catch can and let the gas run out of the line at the carb to make sure you have constant fuel flow. I don"t know what filter you cleaned I assume you mean the screen in the top of the bowl into the tank. Whether you use an inline filter or not is not the problem. I have used inline filters on all my tractors forever and would not start them without it. But let"s not start that tiresome argument again.

If everything is good in the gas line it might be moisture in the distributor.

You didn"t say how long it runs before it quits.

There should be a screen behind the tube fitting where your gas line connects to the carburetor. It may be plugged with crud. Open that main adjusting screw near the bottom of the carburetor.
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor while someone makes an attempt to start the engine.
You should be able to keep the engine running if there's good suction and there's no fuel blockage. Hal

I'd replace the condensor, doesn't cost much and eliminates one more thing.

Hi,

Different thought (and it's been a very long time since I got close to an M so forgive me everyone if I'm recalling something wrong).

Does it have an oil bath air filter... and could you have enough water (condensation/etc) that's frozen and blocking it ?

Randy

When it quits, pull a plug. If it's bone dry you may have a fuel problem. If it's slick wet you have an ignition problem.
How long does it run? If it's only 10 to 30 seconds, you could have a flooding problem. Plug check will show that.
Gordo

The fuel will combust even if not compressed, Do not ask how I know. JimN

Granted fuel will burn in a puddle, but without the compression the engine won't run. Not withstanding your "don't ask" episode.
No worries, this is just blizzard, stuck in the cabin, conversation.

I just had a frustrating experience similar to this. Tractor would start and run for 15-30 seconds before sputtering and puking till it quit. I cleaned the lines, put in a carb kit and still had the same problem. On a hunch, while it was sputtering I walked around to the other side and watched a big blue spark arcing from the coil tower to the small terminal. I thought it was a bad coil, but upon closer inspection the problem turned out to be a bad coil wire and nothing more. I guess the resistance was so great the spark found an easier path to ground across the coil terminals.
Could be something to look at in your case.

My uncle operated his 400 for 5 hours on a Friday in August (hot as anything),plowing down wheet stubble in clay. He drove it into the farmyard and shut it off. Got in his car and drove off. (my aunt was home and heard the tractor start) She ran to the door 6 ft away, and saw no one near or in the yard.
It was in reverse, with the wheels a bit turned. It was backing around and around in an ever widening circle. She was an operator, but could not figure a way to get on it while it was backing at idle without getting killed. (3-16 FH plow was mounted) It made a last pass in the yard and one back tire hit a RR tie and jogged the steering. The new direction went out into scrub brush and 2" trees which were negotiated dramatically. It came back into the yard and hit the tack shed in the west wall driving it off of its foundation about three feet. The front landslide ramped up on the foundation and lifted a rear tire untill it just spun grinding rubber against the ground, and concrete. She got on, and still could not shut it off. Finally killed the engine with the brakes, Whew.
The nephew across the street was called and came to disconnect the battery.
The insurance man had to be shown the melted components of the ignition switch that had failed the sputtering of the switch caused a spark in the hot and ready cylinder and it started with no further power. it then stuck in the on mode and was "on when diagnosed with a meter.
The first internal combustion engines were not compression based. they had an atmospheric mix of fuel and air ignited to push a piston upward, then recharged to do it again. (also just a neet discussion) JimN