Attention: mike in new mexico

Dr. Bert

Member
Mike-- here are the settings for the IH Model R I 1/4 inch carburetor. Open the fuel adjusting screw on top of the fuel bowl one and one half turns and the idle mixture adjustment screw underneath the carburetor about two and one half turns. Prime, choke, and crank. I belted mine to a JD60 and let that big horse do the work. Before I close, what part of NM are you located? I grew up on a ranch in the San Luis Valley in southern Co.
Forgot to add-- there are about 5 or 6 different carburetors for the Regular, but I think these adjustments will give you a starting point.
 
Hello Dr. Bert, thanks very much for this information. It will sure help me out as I can't seem to find my books. I live west of Portales, NM, SW of Clovis. I am originally from the nourtheastern part of the state, up in ranch country. I am living here while my wife finishes her teaching carreer as a high school teacher. By the way, the way I came about this tractor is kinda funny. I have been rebuilding a 1941 JD H and 3 weeks ago saturday, there was an auction outside clovis where for years a man had about 30 old tractors layed out on a display next to the highway for the last 30 years. Well to make a long story short, I sent my son with $225 to buy me a magneto for my H and 5 hours later, he comes back and gets the trailer and he told me that he didn't buy me a magneto but a regular because he knew I always wanted one. I have had F20s but not a regular. There were 3 regulars there and he picked out the most complete one and bought for $175. At that sale, they had 2 unstyled John Deere D's that went for only $250 for one and $350 for the other. These were rusted down but not bad. Nobody was buying anything. The big sale of the day was a john deere B, unstyled on skeleton wheels, went for $700. A guy with $10,000 in cash could have bought the whole lot. Well anyway, we decided to shut down on the john deere and went to work on the regular. We had it running in 2 days. What we are doing now is cosmetics; replacing all of the modification, broken parts, etc. It runs fine for a little bit but the float sticks then dies. By the way, its a 1926 model on steel rears and F20 rubber on the front. Cant wait to get it going.

Thanks for everything, Mike.
 

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