advice for splitting super a

I am going to be putting a new clutch in a 1950 super a this weekend and am looking for any advice you knowledgeable people may have. What to look for? Be careful of? and what else to check while in there. All input is welcome. I have limited knowledge of clutch replacements.

Mark: The first thing you should do is make a couple of wooden wedges to drive in between axle and steering box. The way I do it is place a hardwood pallet under front end, then block up to two points at each end of axle. Then make a large U to fit under oil pan, in such a way cast is taking weight not the oil pan, and block under that. Tie the entire front end down to pallet with rachet straps. Place a bottle jack under clutch housing and a pallet jack in pallet.

Then it's just a matter disconnecting all plumbing, wiring, etc. between the two halves. Then unbvolt the clutch housing and roll the front half away on the pallet jack.

Make sure you install a new pilot bushing, a new release bearing, a new pressure plate and new clutch disc. Don't put the clutch disc in backwards. I did it once in a hurry, so have dozens of other YTers. Another thing to check is make sure clutch pedal linkage to release bearing is not bent.

I've done 6 now got it down to a 5 hour job by myself. It wasn't the first one that I put the clutch disc in backwards. Watch that one closely, especially if you have friends around that like to examine things and put them down, opposite side up.

best to pick up a shop manual for it if you have never done one before. i&t isnt a bad manual and most farm and fleets carry that one. blue ribbon manual would be the best, but if you are splitting it this weekend, get the i&t. when splitting that one be real careful blocking that tractor up, the front end engine asem is real floppy and can get away from you real quick. get a cherry picker on the front and chain er up real good.

Take some pics during the splitting. They may be useful during reassembly. Take some notes too. Hal

Better get some info on how to split the tractor in the I@T manual. Read it good as one end of the tractor will have to be able to move endways to remove the clutch parts. You should remove the flywheel and have the disc surface renewed. They will surface grind to renew the surface. Your kit will include a new pilot bearing also. You need to also get the adjustment rod cleaned so you can set the pedal play to insure that the throw-out bearing can do its job.

Forgot the most important question just why do you need anew clutch kit. Are you sure thats the answer to whatever problem you now have.

Thank you for the responses. I have a couple adjustable stands and a cherry picker to make sure it is stable. I have done a cub and a 340 clutch before with help but never an A. To answer Gene's question, I know it needs a clutch because the other one is in pieces. Do you wedge the front axle to keep it from pivoting?

Mark: Wedge that front axle before you start. Because of the offset engine these can be difficult to deal with if they get away on you.

I use the pallet as I have that. I've seen guys place a diagnol arm from cultivator mount with a caster wheel on it. Then you can roll front end on front wheels and the caster.