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Farmall A starting problem

V

Vic Bunn

Member
Any thoughts on why my tractor won't start by cranking? It seems like I can flood the carburetor but not the plugs. The mag spark looks O.K. Push starting is effortless. After starting, it runs fine.
 
If the mag impulse coupling is not tripping, or not loading its trip spring as it should at hand crank speed, it will not start. The impulse should snap loudly when Number 1 passes TDC. If not that impulse is causing the issue. Pull starting spins the mag in the same way it does when running and thus lots of spark. If it snaps, and has spark, I would pull the Sparkplugs one at a time and put a teaspoon full of gasoline in each hole then put the plugs back in and try it. If it fires up, it may not be getting full choke. Check the closure of the butterfly. JimN
 
The rotor isnt lined up with the tower when it fires. Take out all the plugs so the starter can turn the engine over good. Put a wire in the #1 position of the cap and hook it to a plug ground the plug. Now when the engine turns over it should fire the plug. Next put your finger in the #1 hole as you crank the engine with the starter. When you feel the compression stroke the plug should fire then set the rotor correct. Thats the quickest way to check firing on TDC.
 
Thanks for the tips, guys. When I said crank, that's what I meant. It's a '39---no starter! I know there's a spark at the plugs, so I'm going to shut down the gap to 15 or so and see if that helps. I've been wondering if the mag could be tested and reluctant to go out & buy another one. We'll see what happens!
 
The original McCormick-Deering Farmall-A Tractor Instruction Manual page 19 calls for Champion No. 15 or AC No. J-7 plugs set to .020-.025".
 
I just took the air cleaner with oil bath off and the tractor started on the first pull. I put the air cleaner minus the oil bath back on and it started. I put new 5W-20 oil in, reinstalled the container, and it would not start. I dumped the oil out and it started right up. What's the fix? The tractor makes one or two parades a year so I'll leave the oil out for now!
 
Intake manifold leaks might be involved, check for leaks with propane from a bottle torch when running. JimN
 
Use a plain jane propane torch. Remove the nozzle (not the pipe). With the tractor running (outside) use a modest flow of propane from the pipe to follow around the intake system. especially the gaskets and rear area. If the engine pickups speed, and begins to run better, there is a hole in that location. It adds fuel to an air leak. JimN
 
make sure the mud dobbers haven"t crawled up into the air intake tube between the oil cup, and the pre-cleaner. Then can crawl in between the fins on the pre-cleaner, and make mud nests that totally plub up the air intake. It will start and run with the oil cup removed, and might even get enough air to idle, but no more.
 
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